Friday, February 15, 2008

ok, ok Thursday!

We had goals I tell you, we did. Aaron popped up his new challenges ouy the pit, just like toast! He was just shy of the last hold on the red one. He needs to push with those long legs! Easy for me to say. He told me that men have 2 moods, hungry and pissed. The Aaron face displayed a bit of both after that route.
We were pining the absence of the Director of Overtraining- Richard, However we were certainly overtraining. I did more coming off the wall than sticking to it. I am also trying to deal with my recent epiphany "Lead Climbing half way is of no use to the team" unless of course I make it the whole way tomorrow. And of course I have other skills,. I will let you know what they are when I think of them! I was reading a book last night. Climbing: from Gym to Crag. I will share with you the section on training and injury prevention.
  • Do not over do it. Avoid overtraining. No climber can crank it hard everyday without paying the price.
  • Rest. Get enough rest between gym sessions. a good rule of thumb is to never climb hard following a major pump fest. Cross train if you must do something.
  • Be balanced. Mix endurance with strength building and technique excerszes. Evolve your schedule with the seasons. ( I would ski today, if someone will join me!)
  • Use pre-emptive taping. Support tendons before they get sore.
  • Let go. Gym training is just that- training. If something hurts drop off! ( I have a problem with this one)

I'll share more later, the rest are just "If it hurts, back off". Babies!

Here is what I know about the next few days. Aaron is out of town. Mel, Carl and I will be there Saturday 1-3 and Sunday late afternoon. I think Julianne is goingFriday afternoon. All this being said, I could be swayed to show up Friday ay 1:30 ish..... Talk to me!

2 comments:

richard said...

Lisa, thank you for posting. I'm glad to see you guys went climbing yesterday. Although, as your book says, get some rest.

One way I've interpreted that is to not try the same climbs on succeeding days. Now, I'm not that disciplined about it, but I try to not climb big overhangs two days in a row or not climb crimpy routes two days in a row.

Lisa, I think you're too hard on yourself sometimes about getting to the top when you're leading. First of all, 90% (99%?) of people wouldn't even try to lead. So you got that going for you. Second of all, the lead I say you and Mel do on Wednesday is extremely hard. For example, after you left on Wednesday, Mike-san led that route. And he got near the top and said "lower me, that's too crazy up there." And he placed 3rd or 4th (I don't remember what he told me) at the climbing competition last week. And he also has the disadvantage of reach over you.

Lisa said...

I'm fine, just a reality check. I figure, when I walk in the gym door. I win.
Mike-san placed 3rd but he said that it was a tie at first and they should have awarded the places by age.
And I don't want rest. I like your interpretation of variety, but then comes peer pressure!