I thought this was Nora at first, but it turned out it wasn’t. This was Saturday afternoon at the lake near our house.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Friday, January 30, 2009
Here’s a quote I just read that I like:
“When in danger or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout.”
— Robert A. Heinlein, The Cat Who Walks Through Walls
A slightly more recent quote I like:
“If you don’t go, you won’t know.” — The Warden (When I asked him if he thought I could climb a certain route.)
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
It’s not too early to get ready for outdoor climbing. Here’s an article and a group of videos on one way to do it.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Saturday, January 24, 2009
just before closing levi handed me a rope to do this lead. (he was climbing like a rockstar as usuall) he scampered up it pretty quick - we almost didnt get the picture.
we decided to skip the skyways on the way back to the bus station down town and almost froze to death on the overpass of the freeway. It was an eventful day!
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
today was a pretty good day at VE Duluth (VED). If you're training it would an awesome place to spend a weekend. The climbs are about 30% longer than VE St. Paul, which makes a HUGE difference. Also- we were talking with some girls and they said that the climbs here are rated about one grade lower than VE St. Paul so we struggled with some 5.9's. We met some new people and it seems that the girl ratio is much higher.
with all that being said our plan is to climb our hearts at VED, and then come may, rock your sock off at VE St. paul. so be ready!
I got these pump rocks from my sister for Christmas and people asked me: "Where are you going to hang them in your apartment?". I said on the water pipe duh! It seems to work so far. My roommates have a go at it every once in a while even. I am going to the VE in Duluth today if anyone's going to be around. Ha Ha
Warrior’s Way makes an interesting point here about making a commitment to a climb along with an exercise to practice:
An important skill in climbing is to stay committed. You are pumped, in a yes-fall zone, and below a crux section. Your mind creates a perception that you are too pumped to continue, you believe your mind's perception, which turns into a justification for hanging on the rope and convincing yourself you cannot continue. "Of course I couldn't continue climbing; I was too pumped."
Monday, January 19, 2009
Well, it's back up to Duluth for Emily and I for a while. I need to learn some more nonsense about stuff. Emily needs to finish up her degree in junk. Thanks for climbing with us this Christmas break. I improved a lot thanks to you guys. Hopefully I am as still improving while I am away too.
See you in a few weeks.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Cardio training has also begun so Mel is a little dizzy from the eliptical trainer and Lisa will be seen "glowing " from the Stair Master. Give them a wave if you see them up there because you know they would rather be climbing. Yes, I am still working on that pull up.
The B team was there too, not sure what they were doing...
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Jake was leading the yellow 11 right of the roof, he fell early and almost hit the floor, he threw his arm back to brace for the impact that didn't happen, his shoulder pooped out, OW! He got it back in, no worries. This has been and issue, more physical therapy is in order.
Then Levi attempted that same route. A hold near the last clip spun and his took a very long fall, about half way down the wall. The guy next to me said "good catch". Hey, if your mama won't catch you, who will?
I'm sure some or most of us will climb tomorrow, as will Mel and the "B" team. How about you?
Here is a photo of my lads were they were not so tough as they are now but they thought they were.
Here is a complete trip report on the Owen Spalding Route up the Grand Teton. Richard's previous post depicted several routes. Which will we take? I am happy to say that the guide will decide based on our climbing skills at ground school. That is very ok with me.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Hey now, not that kind of booty! The kind of bootie we're putting on Buddy to go on a walk 'cuz it is PFC (Pretty Fricking Cold) outside in MN right now. Those of you who thought it was something else, should be ashamed of yourself. (You know who you are; shame, shame, shame.) Actually, when you look at his face, he is pretty ashamed too. I suppose it's because his boots don't match his belt. We'll fix that next year.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Lisa, Mel and Carl have arranged to climb the Grand Teton this August. So, some photos are in order. Here's the summit from the lower saddle (lower left in photo below), with the most popular routes marked. At the lower saddle, they
will spend a restful and very comfortable night. Then leave shortly after midnight, climb to the summit, and then go back to the car. Lots of history and info here. They'll start at 6732 ft of elevation and finish at the summit at 13770 ft. So the total gain is .... a lot. I just figured out it is approximately 20.108571428571428571428571428571 times the height of Afton Alps Ski area. You do the math, if you don't believe me. Afton says it is 350 feet high in the sky. (That's why on many days, you can't see the summit - it's lost in the clouds.)
This synaptic facilitation technique is new to me and I think it's worth trying - at least for pull ups. The article linked above mentions one person who did chin ups every time "he went down into his basement; each day he would do between 25 and 100 chin-ups." The secret seems to be to stop well short of muscle failure on each set you do. More here.
Monday, January 12, 2009
This is one part of a video of the record-breaking ascent of the Nose in Yosemite last summer. They move quite efficiently, not super fast. They also place only a few pieces of gear. The King Swing, at the end, is quite spectacular.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Friday, January 9, 2009
John and Mike P. (Dr. P.) got back tonight from their ski trip into the BWCA. And reported they had the worst conditions you can have on a winter ski trip. It was -27 at night and deep (12+") snow on the lakes. OK, so far so good; nice deep, powder snow and cold enough so you can see the stars freeze. (Sounds about right for January in northern MN.) But there was also a foot of wet slush under the snow which, of course, froze to their skis and the sleds they were hauling. OK, but at least they could take a short cut across the lake since it was frozen. No, they couldn't do that because of the open water. I think pulling big rocks around the yard sounds like more fun.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
We plan to go to Homer's at about 1PM. Come if you can. Google Street Map below. Address is approximately 1248 Homer St. in St. Paul. It's just north of Shepard road and about 6 blocks west of I-35E. The climbing area is on the river side of Shepard Road right where Homer ends. I think we'll have enough gear for anyone who wants to come. But check first.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Lots more photos of today here at this link.
And here's a shot of Liz, the famous route setter at VE. My new name for her is Scrunchie 'cuz she sets such good routes requiring the climber to get all scrunched up.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Monday, January 5, 2009
Sunday, January 4, 2009
This is a little intimidating for me because of the humiliation I will get if I don't succeed. But, here are some of my climbing goals for this year. Plus, if I don't make any of them, I will just go back and delete this post.
- Be friendly to other climbers
- Do a lead from the pit, up and over the ceiling, down the other wall and then back up and over and down to the start without a take.
- Cross the other ceiling the long way without a take.
- Climb 2-3 of the 5.12s at Red Wing clean. I've done about 3 with a few takes.
Just as I arrived at VE on Sunday, I saw the Warden and Mike sneaking out. They did not want to stay and have a C.R.A.P. with us. For shame.
For the rest of us - Emily, Carl, Nora, Mel, Lisa and me - we had a good day climbing AND a good C.R.A.P. at Yarusso's. And Eric joined us too.
In order to prevent the spread of disease from the filth and the germs that some of you are leaving on the holds at VE, starting this year, we recommend you wear this outfit. Especially if I am climbing the route after you. A clean hold is a healthy hold. So keep your filthy hands off of my holds. Thank you.