Wild Country has a series of six videos as well as PDF files on how to climb different sized cracks here. This is the most recent video on how to tape.
Thursday, June 28, 2012
I suspected that GriGri was a derivation of the Voodoo word “gris gris".” But I didn’t know “belay” came from Old English and “arete” from Greek.
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Monday, June 25, 2012
Saturday, June 23, 2012
An article about Alex Honnold’s recent link-up in Yosemite. The video below is of him climbing on Mt Watkins. Almost all of the 75 pitches were in the 5.10-5.11 range. Below is some rough footage of his climb on Mt. Watkins. It gave me the willies to see him hanging onto a small crimp while reaching for his daisy chain to clip into a bolt.
Friday, June 22, 2012
A quote from an 8 year-old Pakastani boy whose father was a porter killed in the 2008 K2 climbing accident. This quote is from a new book about the accident with a book review here.
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Monday, June 18, 2012
Oh, wait she’s on the top of the car. She just invented a new sport “Car Top Soloing.”
Here’s Killer getting a spot from Marianna:
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Monday, June 11, 2012
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Some advice from Dave MacLeod on succeeding when climbs are hard":
“Every hard climb I’ve ever done has felt easy in the moment of success, but hard right up to that point. I’m not looking to do easy climbs easily. I want to do hard climbs easily. Every
hard climb I’ve ever done has felt easy in the moment of success, but hard right up to that point. Therefore since 99% of climbing time is going to feel hard in all the forms that ‘hard’ takes, if you enjoy those things then you get on with the journey to that special moment of easiness quicker.”
Friday, June 8, 2012
I’ve heard the phrase attributed to Isaac Newton that he could see further only because he was “standing on the shoulders of giants.” But I had no idea there was an actual competition each year to do that.
You probably have enough liquid already. Here’s another article about the myth of 8 glasses of water a day being important. It persists because there’s a lot of money to be made selling water.
“Yet the myth sticks around, likely because people have made a lot of money off the idea that we're all on the precipice of dehydration.”
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
I like to climb slabs. But I don’t get much practice. Good tips here on slab climbing. Including these:
- “Practice just standing on two footholds on a slab. Find the balance between the two holds. Rock back and forth on your feet, transferring your weight from one foot to the other. This will teach you where to aim with each foot movement.
- Keep your hips away from the wall. You want to put as much downward pressure on your feet as possible, keeping your balance over the powerpoint of your toes.
- Use your hands as balance points, don’t try and “pull down” on the slab. If you try and pull from hold to hold, it will impact the balance you have found on your feet, that’s where you want to stay.
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
Big turnout today at Taylors. Here’s Killer racking up for a lead climb and Elizabeth I and Elizabeth II talking about who will clean up after her.
One of Kyle’s placements on a lead climb. I just like the photo.
A young woman travels from Ireland to solo climb “Lurking Fear” on El Cap. She’s not experienced at big wall climbing and tells quite a tale of her climb. I liked these quotes:
“I split my loads and carried one to the top, however my brain then shut off completely and I was too scared to scramble back down for the second one. Instead I sat at the very tippy top of El Cap, chain smoking and thinking about life, …
The next morning was an ibuprofen breakfast kind of morning. My toes had been somehow both numb and hurting so I decided to brave the smell and investigate. Eeek, my toenails and the skin on my big toes had gone kind of black and numb on the surface. Lovely. Found out later it was mild trench-foot from the cold wet night.”
Monday, June 4, 2012
Sunday, June 3, 2012
We went mountain biking at the new Cuyana mine trails this weekend. Great mountain bike trails built on and over mine tailings from long-abandoned iron ore mines. While there, I read about the use of one of these mine pits to test high altitude on humans. This was in 1957. Details here. The pit is over 400 feet deep. Today, it’s filled with water.