Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Hiking The Length Of South America

Three women are hiking the length of South America. They started last October in southern Patagonia and are now in Peru. This is one of the trails they hiked. And one of the rivers they crossed.Their blog is here.

That’s A Close Call

There are 4 climbers in the photo below about to be swallowed up by an avalanche on Annapurna. They all survived by ducking under an overhanging ice cliff. Full story here.

Monday, June 25, 2012

Caring For Your Harness

This seems like good advice on caring for your climbing harness – looking for wear spots (as in the photo below) and how to clean it.

Saturday, June 23, 2012

“It Was Heinous” Having Bugs In His Mouth While Freesoloing

An article about Alex Honnold’s recent link-up in Yosemite. The video below is of him climbing on Mt Watkins. Almost all of the 75 pitches were in the 5.10-5.11 range. Below is some rough footage of his climb on Mt. Watkins. It gave me the willies to see him hanging onto a small crimp while reaching for his daisy chain to clip into a bolt.

Friday, June 22, 2012

“Why Do They Come Climb Mountains And Kill Our Fathers?”

A quote from an 8 year-old Pakastani boy whose father was a porter killed in the 2008 K2 climbing accident. This quote is from a new book about the accident with a book review here.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Stand Up Straight

A shirt to help you perform better by forcing you to stand up straighter. If this had been around a few years earlier, there would have been no hunchback in that church in France.

intelliskin photo.jpg

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Team Short Legs

We stayed at a campground in the Black Hills which has very high benches. These benches are so high, Ron’s short legs can’t reach the ground when he’s seated. So he got Killer to teach him how to enjoy sitting up so high.


Monday, June 18, 2012

What Pro Climbers Wear

One of these people is a pro climber who knows how to dress – he’s wearing red. The others, don’t know how to dress properly for climbing. See if you can find him.


Weird Water

Here’s a climb we did last week in the Black Hills.

Conn Diagonal

IMG_0117Here are some photos of Logan and Kyle on the Conn Diagonal in the Black Hills. Quite a climb, boys!


Let’s zoom in to spot them.



Bouldering From The Car

IMG_0261Here’s Marianna – The Hammer – doing some bouldering in the Black Hills. She ‘s bold to get so far above the ground.


Oh, wait she’s on the top of the car. She just invented a new sport “Car Top Soloing.”


Here’s Killer getting a spot from Marianna:


Monday, June 11, 2012

Best Pool Ever

For climbers, this might be the best swimming pool I’ve ever seen. It’s at this fancy schmancy resort in southern Utah.

Canyoneering The Grand

A trailer about canyoneering the Grand Canyon. At the 1:35 second mark, they build a rappel anchor from some loose rocks. Quite amazing.

Last of the Great Unknown - Trailer #1 from Dan Ransom on Vimeo.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

If It Weren’t Hard, It’d Be Easy

Some advice from Dave MacLeod on succeeding when climbs are hard":

Every hard climb I’ve ever done has felt easy in the moment of success, but hard right up to that point. I’m not looking to do easy climbs easily. I want to do hard climbs easily. Every

hard climb I’ve ever done has felt easy in the moment of success, but hard right up to that point. Therefore since 99% of climbing time is going to feel hard in all the forms that ‘hard’ takes, if you enjoy those things then you get on with the journey to that special moment of easiness quicker.”

Friday, June 8, 2012

Standing On The Shoulders Of Giants

I’ve heard the phrase attributed to Isaac Newton that he could see further only because he was “standing on the shoulders of giants.” But I had no idea there was an actual competition each year to do that.

Casteller from Mike Randolph on Vimeo.

“Let Go Of That Water Bottle”

You probably have enough liquid already. Here’s another article about the myth of 8 glasses of water a day being important. It persists because there’s a lot of money to be made selling water.

“Yet the myth sticks around, likely because people have made a lot of money off the idea that we're all on the precipice of dehydration.”

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Slab Climbing Tips

I like to climb slabs. But I don’t get much practice. Good tips here on slab climbing. Including these:

    • Practice just standing on two footholds on a slab. Find the balance between the two holds. Rock back and forth on your feet, transferring your weight from one foot to the other. This will teach you where to aim with each foot movement.
    • Keep your hips away from the wall. You want to put as much downward pressure on your feet as possible, keeping your balance over the powerpoint of your toes.
    • Use your hands as balance points, don’t try and “pull down” on the slab. If you try and pull from hold to hold, it will impact the balance you have found on your feet, that’s where you want to stay.

Kauk Slab from Beth Rodden on Vimeo.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Here’s Why Kids Like Rock Climbing

IMG_0052This is Kyle and Anna’s daughter Olivia at Taylors Falls today. I understand why kids like rock climbing – lots of comfortable rocks to lean against. I think her sleep number is ROCK.

Big turnout today at Taylors. Here’s Killer racking up for a lead climb and Elizabeth I and Elizabeth II talking about who will clean up after her.


One of Kyle’s placements on a lead climb. I just like the photo.


Lurking Fear

A young woman travels from Ireland to solo climb “Lurking Fear” on El Cap. She’s not experienced at big wall climbing and tells quite a tale of her climb. I liked these quotes:

“I split my loads and carried one to the top, however my brain then shut off completely and I was too scared to scramble back down for the second one. Instead I sat at the very tippy Happy ledge with no raintop of El Cap, chain smoking and thinking about life, …

The next morning was an ibuprofen breakfast kind of morning. My toes had been somehow both numb and hurting so I decided to brave the smell and investigate. Eeek, my toenails and the skin on my big toes had gone kind of black and numb on the surface. Lovely. Found out later it was mild trench-foot from the cold wet night.”

Monday, June 4, 2012

Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairies

No insult intended, but I watched this time lapse of Jen and Pete setting up anchors at TF today, and thought of this music. Wait for the surprise ending.

Chillin’ By The River

IMG_2335Jen, Pete & I climbed at Taylors today and it got hot. So we got down by the river. This was a fun lead that started at the swirling water’s edge.



Sunday, June 3, 2012

Mine Pit & Space Exploration

We went mountain biking at the new Cuyana mine trails this weekend. Great mountain bike trails built on and over mine tailings from long-abandoned iron ore mines. While there, I read about the use of one of these mine pits to test high altitude on humans. This was in 1957. Details here. The pit is over 400 feet deep. Today, it’s filled with water.