Monday, March 31, 2008
on belay (you are on belay)
"je t'assure" or "tu es assuré(e)"
off belay (I am safely anchored and you may take me off belay now)
"relai" or "vaché"
belay off (I have taken you off belay)
le rappel est libre
rock! (I'm dropping something on your head)
"attention!", "rocher!", "pierre!", "sucre!" (used in Switzerland)
rope! (I'm about to pull my rope now)
"attention!" or "corde!"
"avale la corde" or "avale!"
"assure sec!", "sec!", "prends-moi sec" (I want to rest)
"en bas", "laisse-moi descendre", "descends-moi"
"je mousquetonne" or "mousquetonné"
watch me (I'm in trouble here)
"fais-attention", "assure-moi sec", "fais gaffe", "je vole" (off!)
We'd like to get a report from Monday night's crew. "J?"
PS, Aaron.2 how did your homework go on Sunday?
Lisa - "Sunbeam" (or a bunch of other names I get too tired to type.)
Mel - "Mel-lo"
Julianne - "J"
Aaron 1 - "A1" (He suggested "Take" but I don't think he was serious. Aaron? Anyone?)
Aaron 2 - "Flash"
Richard - "Quick Draw" (Another climbing friend, who you haven't met calls me that or QD)
Other climbers in the gym:
Ward - "The Warden" (officially approved by him)
Mike Nohr - "Mike-san" (grudingly accepted by him; may be changed with a new job to Motor Mike)
Mike who climbs with Hessam - "Emergency Mike" (not officially approved by him yet but he's an ER doctor)
Chris Hirsh - "Dr Smooth" (he loves this name; he just completed a 5.14 at Willow River)
I just purchased some of my first anchoring items and I so excited! We learned a good deal at the U of M class and the instructor was great. I would recommend checking out the Center for Outdoor Adventure program if you get a chance.
My family just got back from Cloudland Canyon State Park in Georgia. Wow! What an awesome area with great hikes and beautiful waterfalls. Lots-o-rocks but no climbing in sight.
Funny thing, I was watching the water fall and thinking that would be great to climb frozen! I'm still thawing out.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
A belayer is located at the point (x,0) with the climber located at (0,y). with x and y positive.
If the hypotenuse of the triangle passes through the point (3,5), express the area of the triangle formed by the belayer and the climber as a function of x.
Jenna's Chimney - also would be good for practicing a trad lead
Dealer's Choice - very short so maybe not worth the climb up to it
Living Postmortem - this one has a small roof/overhang near the top
Goofed on Skunkweed - you'll love this climb. It's face + crack + a small overhang at top
These are all in the "Annadonia" area:
Too Low for Zero
Danger High Boltage
And the longest lead at Red Wing which will make you stronger at crack, face and slightly overhanging (plus at the top you can see fossilized coral)
Looking for Lust
Obviously this is just a start and many of you will blast past or skip these routes. But I've listed them in the order I think is easiest to hardest. And it takes a little getting used to the rock at Red Wing.
Lisa and I are trying to figure out outdoor climbing for this coming week. Based on the 5 day forecast, it looks as though the first chance will be this Wednesday. Of course, it all depends on how much snow and rain we get in the next two days. Even with some snow and rain, if the sun's out by Wednesday, it's likely that Red Wing's Winter Wall will be dry and, I hate to even think it, Willow River will be dry. (Oh man, thinking about that last move on that easy(!) climb at Willow, makes me shiver.)
Here's an article I read about falling. 'Cause I'll be doing a lot of falling the next time we climb at Willow.
Other news from Sunday. They ran out of lead ropes! Lame! So you might want to throw one in the trunk of your car. Ward just got back from a great time at Red Rocks. Russell wants me to yogify him. Richard was ripping up all the routes and I climbed to my satisfaction. The original Aaron has news too, I'll let him share it. I'll be at VE Monday at 1:18, I hope not to experience lonliness.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
I also managed to pry the notes from the U of M anchors class out of her hand and I will post them here. She looks forward to sharing this anchoring system on a crag nearby soon! It's cool, less futzing around. And that is always good.
Here's the two page handout on anchoring page one and page two.
I know there's more to life than climbing so let's talk about other topics than just climbing. I know some of you have trips planned so that'd be fun to hear about. I know Lisa's going on a hiking trip to France with hubby. And I know she's done something like that before - I think she hiked across Great Britain in one day. (My memory might be hazy on the details.)
As usual, since I opened my big mouth, I'll tell you where I'm going April 11-16th. I'm going with my brother mountain biking in Moab. Now there's lots of climbing in Moab - Indian Creek, Arches, Potash Road but I've never climbed there.
Because the biking is so fun. For example, here's a short ride that's not hard where you ride your bike right up bare rock passing footprints of dinosaurs. Is that cool, or what? Here's the classic ride called "Slickrock Trail" where you ride the entire time on bare rock. Steep bare rock. You get a Man Card when you're done. (Usually they attach it the leg cast you receive when you crash.) And then there's another favorite of mine "Bartlett Wash" where you ride up, down, all around big amphitheaters of bare rock.
Friday, March 28, 2008
It didn't get above 44 degrees. But the sun was out - thanks Sunbeam - and the wind was non-existent. There's still only about 1/4 of the Red Wing bluffs warm enough and dry enough to climb. So we were limited to the Cyclops and the Winter Wall area. Where most of the climbs are over our head - in both ways.
So we climbed "Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag" and "Jumpstart." And what a difference Lisa's new shoes made. (It can't be that's she's stronger or better - it must be the new shoes.) She roared up "Sleeping" and then used her height advantage to figure out a new way to leap high in the air and grab the ledge on "Jumpstart." Hoo Ray.
Then she did her first outdoor lead on "Sleeping Bat." Not quite the whole thing, but close. (About halfway up, she did her impression of one of Elvis's legs. Next time you see her, ask if she'll demonstrate it.)
I led one of my bugaboos from last year - Suicide Squeeze (great name, huh?) and finished it, so I was happy. And Lisa bought me a burger and a beer on the way home. Cool, huh?
Thursday, March 27, 2008
PS I apologize to Lisa for not being more clear about not climbing on Thursday. I know how lonely it can be all by yourself at VE.
Here is VE News from Steve.
Hey guys. Ice is over, except for the ice I put in my drink on a warm spring day, sitting on my porch, enjoying the cardinals singing in the treetops. . . Oh yeah--climbing. Some things you should know:
1) Anchors/Rockin'. You probably need to know how to set up top ropes safely and quickly using both artificial and natural pro. We teach this every other Saturday morning starting April 5 (a week from this Saturday). In the afternoon, stick around, climb on your top ropes, move them, climb some more, then debrief in downtown Taylors Falls over a cold one. If you are headed towards trad lead (see below), this is an excellent first step.
2) Traditional Lead Climbing. This is a one-day class that starts at the beginning and takes you through mock multipitch leads. Didn't think there was multipitch climbing at Taylors Falls? Guess again (of course, a pitch is about fifteen feet). See the website for dates.
3) The North Shore. My favorite Minnesota climbing destination. We spend a day at Shovel Point (Tettegouche SP) and a day at Palisade Head, long pitches high above Lake Superior. Rough it, or stay in a B & B. ( I can give you some hot leads).4) Devil's Lake, Wisconsin. We have several trips to this climbing destination on the books. Devil's Lake is a favorite destination for people throughout the Midwest: many routes, long long pitches, excellent face and crack climbing, a beautiful setting in a state park. Usually a week-end trip.
4) Needles/Mount Rushmore and Devil's Tower. No one does this trip better than we do. You can do Needles/Mount Rushmore or Devil's Tower, but why not do both, once you've driven all the way out there?!
5) Top Rope Site Manager. You are belaying somebody, they reach a ledge, get dizzy, sit down, and can't move. What do you do? This two-day class is designed for climbing professionals who do outdoor groups, but contains essential information and practice for keeping you and your buddies safe, both in bottom belay and top belay settings. Taught at Devil's Lake.6) Rock Guide Seminar. This five-day class at Needles/Mount Rushmore and Devil's Tower is for climbers who want to lead other climbers in multipitch trad settings. If you are already leading trad, but want to move into a multipitch environment, or need to know more to keep you and your climbing buddies safe, this is an excellent course.
Still with me? Get dates and prices on-line: verticalendeavors.com. Need more information? Just lonely? Call me at 651-253-4903. If you reach my voice mail, don't hang up. That's the message for my other business.Can we create a custom group for you and your family or your buddies? Wanna go someplace that's not on this list? Just call.See you at the crag!Steve Davis, Field Instructor
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Here's Aaron leading
Here's Lisa cleaning the climb
And here I am almost making it to the top
Just like Aaron and I thought yestesday, if we had Lisa with us, it'd be a better day. So, despite my saying it'd be a long time before I returned to Willow River, today we climbed at Willow River again. And Sunbeam (Lisa) was with us as well as the real sun. And she did her first two climbs at Willow today. Including cleaning the draws on a hard 5.10d.
Unlike yesterday, it was warm enough because the sun was out on the south-facing cliffs. (Another day we'll discuss how crazy it is for us to think 45 degrees is warm. That's really crazy!)
We did the same two climbs as yesterday. And we still could not finish that one climb. We tried everything except an elevator and couldn't get to the last bolt.
Still we made a valiant effort and proved the WR theory - "You can't overtrain by climbing every day because you're too busy climbing to get tired."
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Anyway, we sure missed Sunbeam with us today at Willow River. We needed someone who could pop up like toast because we couldn't. (We also missed the sun which would have helped with our fingers.)
This was our first trip to Willow and I don't know when I'll go back. It's plain hard. The setting, alongside a rushing river - so loud the leader and the belayer couldn't hear each other - should be peaceful and relaxing. Instead, to me, it looked evil. Could be the dark, ragged rock soaring 60 feet overhead. Or the imminent danger of rockfall or just our unfamiliarity. We did two different routes - one we completed and one we had to back off from. Some photos:
This is the easiest route there.
It was cold - about 40 with a wind.
Monday, March 24, 2008
Friday, March 21, 2008
Levi definitely gets a Man Card.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Monday, March 17, 2008
Here's a song in honor of Lisa and Levi.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Climbing Self Rescue 101
Have you ever wondered if your partner (‘the more experienced one’) had a problem? How would you deal with it? Learn the basics of belay escapes, self-belay and mechanical advantage systems. Expert climber Dave Watson will share his extensive climbing and safety knowledge with you. Recommended items: shoes, harness, belay device, daisy chain, biners, cordelettes, other rescue equipment you have.
We also met a couple of guys at the gym today that are interested in building up their climbing club. They are with the MN Rovers Outdoors Club and will meet this summer at Taylor's Falls on Friday late afternoon. It's a good time for me, since I'm open in the evenings more. But they could be an interesting group...I won't judge a book (or club) by it's cover. www.mnrovers.org
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Mel and Liz hosted Mr. Levi at VE today and even ran into a couple of women on the edge from St. Andrew's and Mahtomedi's favorite science teacher (he must call me Lisa now, Mrs. Ender? NO!)
Mel climbed with grace and poise as always, a consistantly great climber and not a frequent faller. What Levi lacked in endurance (because of his choice to boulder), he made up for in enthusiasm. As I said, he's me, in a man body. He had a hard time giving up the 5.11b in the NW corner. Jeeez, it's an 11.b for cryin' out loud. I made up with Ryan.
I am still looking for a date to the Omnitheater and am free tonight!
Friday, March 14, 2008
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Most of the climbing walls were too wet to climb. But our intrepid group would not be stopped. Our friend John joined our lively group at this point and we led up "Too Low for Zero" And Lisa did her first climb at Red Wing. And her first outdoor Winter rock climb. (We decided it's still officially Winter 'til next week.) Yahoo! Standing on the snow to start, using cold rock for handholds. Freezing her little paws. Then Aaron did his first outdoor lead "Danger High Boltage." Starting on the snow, going up to the first snow-wet ledge, and up to the top. Man, that's one way to work up a sweat!
Now we were cold so we went over to the 'Winter Wall' area which was sunny but windy. There we climbed "Jump Start" which, guess why it's called that, has a big jump to a ledge at its start. This was more like it: sun, warm rock, big exposure, nice people (some of them at least.)
But we weren't done; not this group. We wandered over to the 'Cyclops Area.' Amazingly enough, there were no crowds waiting to do the popular routes despite it being sunny and warm with no wind. So we chalked up and climbed "Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag." A diverse climb - slopey, slabby, juggy, roofy, scary. Lisa went to the top, as did the rest of us. (Except for poor Buddy who was waiting to climb but no one would tie the rope for him. Ahhhh.) Aaron led this one and declared it was exciting. Especially the part where you climb over a roof and well above your clip. ("Roof, roof" is what dogs say when they're climbing high up past a clip.)
So that was it. We packed up and went home. Not! Next we climbed "Urban Chunks." (I don't think that description is quite accurate. There's a very tough 2nd clip which could result in a ground fall and a tough last clip. C'est la vie.) And we experimented with this technique for retreating off a sport route:
Which is faster to do than to describe.
Then we drove home. Not yet! We stopped at King's Inn and had a peanut butter, mayo, lettuce hamburger. We almost did. It's on the menu. Really, it is. Plus some tasty beer. Then we went home. To bed. To get up tomorrow and do what.... overtrain at VE. Yahoo!
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Of course, Aaron and I did some amazingly difficult, almost impossible climbs. I don't know what Mel and Lisa did. Couldn't see them from where we were moping around without them.
Everest and the Alps are showing at Omnifest nightly at 8 and 9 p.m. I'm flying solo this week and need a belay in that omnitheater. I think it's a 5.5. Shoot me an email in interested.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Friday, March 7, 2008
OK, here's what Pat said.
1. Moonlight Ridge area - about half sport and half trad. Close to Needles parking lot. He and his wife love to climb here. No specific route recommendations.
2. Sylvan Lake area - He likes the "Riddle" route. It's fun on its own and can be used as a top rope for two other harder climbs.
3. Rushmore area - almost all sport climbs. He recommends "Chopping Block" which he called a "juggy, gym roof climb."
Also he likes "Bolts for Bob" and "Waves."
From what I've seen of everyone's climbing, none of these is past your abilities for leading. It'll take a few climbs out there to get the feel of the rock, but these are well within what you can lead.
Oh and I got my shoe back, it’s unharmed and still turns my foot green.
J.’s climb? A video is worth a thousand words, it was a thing of beauty, grace and very little grunting. I'm sure the video will be posted shortly.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
So we did a few leads and a few top ropes and I was whipped. Whipped by that 11 that Julianne and Aaron led a few days ago. Whipped by that Golden Arches climb that they did twice yesterday. So, I haven't been climbing for 6 days and I'm not any stronger. I think the overtraining strategy is way better than this strategy. And the worst part of today was, Lisa had to leave early so she could help the hungry people instead of us.
In other news: Richard is climbing today, Yay!!!!
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
There are lots of ice waterfalls in this canyon. All close to the highway. Here's another one just a little bit east of the first one.
Wed night: Liz, Mel, Carl
Thurs: Aaron, I think.
Friday Afternoon 12:30: Liz, J. and maybe Mel (because noon is too embarassing)
The Weekend Aaron, Carl, Liz are out of Town
Monday 1:18: Just Liz? say it ain't so! Richard!
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Aaron and J. practiced hanging upside down underneath the arch, They were good at it too! Just like little grunting bats. Sorry I couldn't go get my camera. The action was far to exciting to tear myself away. Carl showed up too, as they threatened to stop giving him vacation time if he didn't start to use them. It was music to Liz's ears. It was a very good day. Liz and Aaron stayed well away from the pit of shame, I mean the center ring. Looks like Friday might be a big day.
The main show was pure genius! The aforementioned belayer took center ring when she demonstrated high altitude yoga poses for the crowd. The climax of the show occurred when she performed "dog facing down" under the roof; and held that pose for 3 minutes! Grown men blushed and parents shielded the eyes of thier young. Just as circus go-ers were calming down, she finished her demonstration with a beautiful assent to the top of the route!
When asked if the show will return, V.E officials stated "I hope not."