I kinda needed a refresher after today. (BTW, Aaron, I explained the sling thing wrong.)
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
There’s more discussion of the uses of an equalizing figure 8 here.
“Make an "8" on a bight then return the Loop back through with 8-10" of tail and whalla! What is nice about it is that if the piece blows that one of the loops is attached to, the Biner locks off the loop at the knot.”
Monday, March 29, 2010
There were, amazingly enough, 4 other climbers at TF today besides Peter and me. Peter did some trad leading which is always fun to watch and to second. I only climbed once because of my hurt foot. But I did belay Peter him up many climbs. Weather was nice although a little chilly because of the wind. There were only a few hornets. We stayed on the MN side because the base of the rocks is flooded on the WI side. Some of the climbs Pete did are here, here, and here.
In line with my saying - “We’re never more than a split second from disaster” - I hurt my foot on a treadmill. I was getting in shape to go outdoors so I could hurt myself doing something else.
Speaking of getting hurt, I can see a couple of ways I could get hurt doing what these cyclists are doing.
Peter is desperate to climb on Tuesday. Leave a comment or email Richard or Lisa to get in touch with him. He is a great guy, just a little technology impaired. He sets a great top rope anchor though.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Friday, March 26, 2010
I can do it in the hall at home, let's see if I can remeber dangling off a cliff somewhere...ask us about our rap group! Richard, Aaron and Mel all know even more stuff now.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
I’m not even sure what they did here, but it looks cold, hard and dangerous. This is the story of Will Gadd putting up an overhanging ice climb behind a 460 foot high waterfall. In the photo below, he is using his ice tools to aid climb part of the roof. Panoramic view here.
“In a central Siberian nature reserve called Stolby the locals have a 150-year tradition of free soloing rock formations up to 400 feet tall. Rock climbing there is a community activity and large crowds of all ages – everyone climbing without ropes – are common on the routes.”
The video shows dozens of people of all ages simultaneously free soloing. Especially look at the head-first down climbing starting at about 3:40. Quite a tradition.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Lisa demonstrates how to S.L.B at Red Wing today. It was crowded at Red Wing on Wednesday – there were at least 10 of us there. (On Tuesday, there were only two of us.) Mel and Fabrice got there early and Pamela, Ron, Lisa, Aaron and I took the later shift.
Here’s Ron on “Relentless.” (We had quite a scare on Relentless when I knocked down an ice cooler-sized rock from the very top.) More photos here.
“Well do you, punk?” OK, that quote about luck from the “Dirty Harry” movie, isn’t helpful in learning how to be more lucky. But this research is:
“My research revealed that lucky people generate good fortune via four basic principles. They are skilled at creating and noticing chance opportunities, make lucky decisions by listening to their intuition, create self-fulfilling prophesies via positive expectations, and adopt a resilient attitude that transforms bad luck into good.
Unlucky people often fail to follow their intuition when making a choice, whereas lucky people tend to respect hunches. Unlucky people tend to be creatures of routine. They tend to take the same route to and from work and talk to the same types of people at parties. In contrast, many lucky people try to introduce variety into their lives. Lucky people tend to see the positive side of their ill fortune. They imagine how things could have been worse.”
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Monday, March 22, 2010
This clinic will help the aspiring "trad" climber streamline their systems. The two main themes in this clinic are:
•You should have a working knowledge of multiple systems regarding anchoring and various belay choices.
•Your anchor is a workstation.
Rope management, rappelling processes, racking strategies, advanced knots, and host of tips and trips are included in this fun, hands-on, clinic.
•Members receive a 10% discount
NOTE: We must have a minimum of 4 participants to run the clinic.
So anyway, Richard wants to take this class and he said I would to and then Aaron said he would, so who else wants to? It's on Thursday. Come one! You will learn stuff.
Was held last weekend in the Tetons. Racers start in the Teton Village base area with skins on, and they finish by climbing a ladder up to Corbet's Couloir only to traverse right back down. And don't worry--everything in between is hardly a cake walk. The course is is new this year, spanning 7,800 feet.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Red River Gorge by Levi (Spring Break 2010)
- Roadside Crag
- Jump For Joy 5.9+ (Onsight) Slab
- Fadda 5.10a (Onsight) Slab
- Up Yonder 5.11b (Onsight) (do extension, way up yonder 12b)
- Stay the Hand 5.12a (One fall) cool bouldery start, mono, 2 finger pockets
- Military Wall
- In the Light 5.10c (Onsight) pumpy warm up
- Possum Lips 5.10d (Red point) hard slab, delicate very cool
- Stay left 5.10a (Red Point) ( Stay left!)
- Reliquary 5.12b (One Fall) crux is at large hueco, big move to slopy ledge.
- Gung Ho 5.12b (One Fall) sequency pockets hard v4 boulder problem at top flaky edge. Very fun
- Tissue Tiger 5.12b (One fall) Fun, Hard boulder problem in between 4th and 5th bolt. Follow tic marks. Mess of huecos
- Muir Valley
- Tectonic Wall
- Plate Tectonics 5.9+ (fell 2 inch from ground everyone laughed at me) very cool route
- 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c (Onsight) cool holds
- ED 5.7 (Trad Onsight) Wet but good enough footing
- Blue Collar 5.12b ( got worked) super small edges peter got redpoint on second go.
- First Fall 5.9 (Trad Onsight) Very cool dihedral crack to fist hand crack and pull bulge to the end. 5 pieces 55 feet
- Tectonic Wall
- Mother Load
- Injured Reserve 5.11a (One fall, being lazy) defined crux big move to slopy pinch
- Trust in Jesus 5.11b (On Site) Crimpy longer version of plate tectonics
- Heart Shaped box 5.12c (One Fall, close onsight) 2 goes Favorite route of the trip. Cool pockets. Very crimpy ending 4th pad crimps and clip chains from full pad crimp and shitty feet (aka take victory whip)
- Golden Touch 5.13b ( 2 bolts up) couldn’t get past credit card width crimp. Dyno past and move to 3 finger pocket
- Tuna Town 5.12d ( 5 takes) 45 degree over hang big shoulder moves. Did all the moves just very pumpy. 10 clips then run out to chains. I slapped the chains and took the traditional 50 foot whipper, very fun.
- Whip Stocking 5.11a (Onsight) 85 feet 8 bolts, no hands rest near chains.
- Maizy Mae 5.13a (2 moves from top) One bolt 30 feet (stick clipped don’t worry) possible V7. Peter got Onsight.
- Emerald City
- No place like home 5.11c (one fall) clipping draws is horrendous, it evens suggests getting your partner to do it in the guidebook. Crux move is crimpy delicate arête. First bolt 30 feet off ground. Good exposure.
- White Out 5.8+ (Onsight Trad) Beautiful golden dihedral. Moves to face at the top and to a finger crack. Hard to find anchors at first glance. Good exposure. 2 pitches. First pitch free solo.
Tuna Town Whipper below:
July 15th to 18th, 2010
Will Gadd, Gravsports Inc.
Goal: To meaningfully improve a participant's ability to move confidently, securely and quickly in non-technical mountain terrain.
Summary: Moving well in the mountains can be both an art form when done well and a circus stunt gone wrong when done poorly. Watch an experienced mountain athlete moving across talus (blocks of rock) and it looks easy, fluid and smooth. Watch someone who hasn't crossed much talus before and it's painful. It's even more painful if you're the less-than-fluid person trying to follow others across the talus. In the last 30 years of life in the mountains I've taught a lot of people how to climb, kayak, paraglide, ski and do other mountain sports. But, no matter who I'm working with, I always spend a good chunk of the class or coaching session simply working with people on how to get to the climb, river, or down the trail. This course will revolve around four main areas: Movement Skill, Training, Terrain Analysis, and Headspace. All of these things work together to move well across that talus field, and we hope to improve each participant's level of ability in each area.
A good part of this course will take place in the "Playground," which is a series of skill-developing stations... I don't want to give too much away, but these stations are active, fun, and very, very good at developing better mountain movement patterns. Think logs over rivers, rock hopping, sliding on steep trails, but all organized into a replicable, fun and reasonably safe environment.
Each participant will also receive a copy of the completed chapters and notes for "Mountain Movement," a new book by Will Gadd.
More info here.
They are trying to free climb El Cap’s hardest route. Can they climb:
“..at least seven pitches of 5.14 to 5.14+ and another ten in the 5.13 range...”
Part 2 below. Part 1here.
A family of four sets out in February from Southeast Alaska in their sailboat. Then the fun starts:
“When they’re forced on to abandon ship at night in near-freezing water, all hell breaks loose. Managing to make their way alive to shore, they begin a desperate race against hunger and exposure. ..the Wortmans use shipwrecked scraps to rebuild a badly damaged plastic raft and clamber for miles over icy cliffs in utter darkness. .. Ten days after the shipwreck, the two girls are left on the beach while father and son head out in the raft for one last push to a distant cabin, but a round of frustrating delays means their reunion may never come. Starvation, frostbite, gangrene—it’s all here in excruciating detail. Get ready to shiver.”
Friday, March 19, 2010
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Today Jennifer, Febrice, Pete, Ron, Aaron, Lisa and I met at Red Wing for our first official Fun With Rocks 2010 Red Wing Climb. After some climbing, we met in the parking lot for some celebrating and then all adjourned to Andy’s Grill for $1.00 Sloppy Joes. $1. (“Totally worth a dollar,” Jen said. )
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Dave MacLeod explains body tension here.
“Body tension is the product largely of technique, but also of strength through the body. Some important (and trainable) parts of it are:
Climbing rhythm. That is not getting too extended with both arms high before moving the feet.
Aggression in the lower body. Many climbers are far too passive with the lower body, and aren’t using the strength they already have.
Placement of the foot - The big toe must be in a position to apply the strength, and it’s often not possible because the toes are not engaged and the heel is dropped low.
Turning of the trunk - Helps bring the tensioned hip close to the wall during a stretch and be more ‘over’ the foothold.
Momentum use. Momentum is essential to apply body tension from awkward positions where it’s hard to apply foot force. For example throwing the hips into a plane in which the foot can apply force during execution of a move.
You could go to a gym and train body strength for a decade and it would make little difference to your body tension in climbing if the above factors are not working for you already. The flip side is that many climbers have enough strength already to get a lot more body tension just by working on the technical elements.”
Saturday, March 13, 2010
This is a story on the Black Diamond website about a unique style of bouldering.
“I turned the corner and saw two guys about my age, decked out in football helmets and shoulder pads, hockey gloves, Carhartt pants and wrestling shoes…Max sprinted toward the sloping slab face of a massive boulder; his thin wrestling shoes digging up bits of gravel with every powerful stride. Max launched on to the slab in a surprisingly athletic bound; his feet and legs pumped against the rock as his hockey-gloved hands scratched to assist.
… At that moment I could have introduced them to “proper” bouldering as I knew it, with advanced techniques, chalk, pads, magazines, V-grades, controversy, competition. As a seasoned boulderer of 13 years, I could have shown them how the sport was really supposed to be practiced. But why? How were my methods of bouldering better than theirs? My style more pure? Or how were anyone’s for that matter? How could I have possibly approached Max and Duane and told them that despite all their passion and raw energy their version of bouldering was incorrect? “Is that really my purpose as a climber?” I thought. No, it definitely was not.”
One time, when we were in the Black Hills climbing and it was raining, we went looking for these boulders. Maybe an hour west of Custer. Never could find them.
Friday, March 12, 2010
Thursday, March 11, 2010
According to their website, this trip is for you if you’re …
“… looking for a relaxed adventure. The arctic already is far off the beaten track and we are far from any usual tourist route. You do not have to have previous Arctic experience, but you do need to have an adventurous spirit.”
I think sneaking up on a narwhal – and a walrus - would be the best reason for going.
If you have ever taken a big whipper or suffered a climbing injury, you know it can be a long road back. Some days I wonder if I will ever get back. In exploring Steph Davis' Blog I found an article that speaks to this issue better than any I have seen, The part I like best is a comment by "Larkin".
"”Take that glow/excitement/appreciation for life that you gained from this experience and recycle it back into your adventure. As you slowly work your way back into climbing and leading don’t “learn to ignore the fear” but let it become your friend, so that when you feel it, you think “oh yeah! Thanks for the reminder. This is LIFE, and I love it!” rather than “oh shit, gonna die, gotta go down.”
To read Steph's full article, and I think you should, click here Mind Games