Thursday, July 31, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Some photos of our multi-pitch, rappel/aid climbing clinic at Red Wing on Tuesday. It was "chaos" to use Ron's term. But fun. And not so hot. (Temperature-wise, I mean. Because, of course, everyone there is a super hot climber.)
Ron preparing to rap down from the 1st ascent of the 2nd pitch of the 3rd buttress on the 4th bluff on the 29th of July (sorry I ran out of sequential numbers.)
Monday, July 28, 2008
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Because of Mel-lo's and Sunbeam's upcoming trip, we're going to practice some of the techniques they'll need to climb at the Needles. So let's meet this Tuesday afternoon at Red Wing starting about 3ish. (We'll do some climbing too.)
Here's what you should bring - besides your regular climbing stuff:
- Some accessory cord - 5mm to 7mm about 2 to 3 feet is plenty
- 2 locking biners
- A daisy chain or personal anchor system
- An enthusiastic willingness to learn (blah, blah, blah)
I have all of the above (except the enthusiastic willingness to learn) so don't worry if you haven't bought that stuff yet - but remember: it's always better to get more stuff.
(Ron, we'll be there late, so get your butt out there!)
PS Apparently "rappel" is French and "abseil" is German. We'll use the French. Vive le France!
Hooray for us. We saw some nice rocks, they were laying down so we climbed them with no hands. Photos are on my other blog if you want to see. Women on the Edge Blog The only photos I have right now are of a big party... I was busy paddling during the race!! I'll post some exciting race photos as I get them. As for now enjoy the cute-ness of you climbing buds.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Friday, July 25, 2008
Thursday, July 24, 2008
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I’m officially in Bum Fu@# China!
There are other dots on the map that I know who they are. Israel is my nephew PJ, who would be eager and welcome to climb with us if he would get his lanky self back here. Colorado! Jake and Levi. I know more, but how about you?
Mel and I are of to Grand Marais to Race Dragon Boats this weekend.Click here for race coverage on Saturday Our team is Women on the Edge. Our goal is to not create an emergency rescue situation. I will try to send updates through QD. It's a sprint accross the harbor about 4 minutes. But I'm always spent after about 2 minutes. It's fun! more later.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Could you light a 60W bulb with the energy you use to climb? From this website, the equation for power is:
power = work ÷ time (equation 1)
work = force x distance (equation 2)
The distance is the vertical height climbed (in meters).
force = mass x gravity (equation 3)
Mass is the weight of the climber (in kg).
Gravity (or more accurately, the acceleration due to gravity) is 10 meters/second/second.
So putting these into equation 3, and then that into equation 2 we get: work = weight x 10 x height (equation 4)
And putting this into equation 1 gives us: power = weight x 10 x height ÷ time (equation 5)
This equation gives the average power output (watts) required for a given weight (kg) to climb a given height (meters) in a given time (seconds).
So I used the above equation to calculate the watts I generated when I climbed "Looking for Lust" at RW this week. 72kg x 10 x 21 m ÷ 240 seconds (it took me about 4 minutes) = 64 watts.
Wow, that's a lot. This might be a solution to green power. So could I light an electric bulb with that amount of output? I did some research at this site and found out a 60 watt bulb uses 60 watts per second. I did the climb in approximately 240 seconds so that equals a .27 watt bulb (that's 27 hundredths of a watt per second). And I'd need to climb it 24/7.
I guess I'm just a very dim bulb.
Each year, the Black Hills Climbers' Coalition has a meeting to discuss their climbing ethics in the Black Hills. They also put up ropes on some of the classic climbs and allow others to top rope them. This year, they're roping up climbs in the Tenpins area of the Needles. And John and I will be there.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Here's an article on Greenland that explains why ice looks like it does:
"About 50 feet of snow depth is required to pack the snow into typical glacial ice. That ice is white because it is full of air bubbles and crystal boundaries which scatter the light — what a physicist like me would call Mie scattering.
It’s the same phenomenon that makes milk or clouds white.
Non-fat milk is much less opaque than full-fat milk or cream and has a bluish tinge. This is a different kind of scattering, called Rayleigh scattering, and is why the sky is blue, and why deep water is blue. The difference between Rayleigh and Mie scattering is the size of the particles.
Once a meltwater lake starts it tends to get deeper because it absorbs sunlight more than the surrounding ice. It is intensely blue from Rayleigh scattering."
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Friday, July 18, 2008
A new activity not for people who are weak of heart - or ankles. There's a video link in that article that shows tower jumping in the Czech Republic. Could this be replicated in the Needles of South Dakota?
Here's another video that shows some tower jumping in the Czech Republic along with slacklining.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Whether you're out running in the extreme heat ( Lisa) or putting up new routes in the Tetons (Mel-lo) or skiing in Alaska ( John and Dr. P.) this will help others track your progress and see that you are alright.
It seems like a great idea for wilderness travel because when you "...press the OK button, SPOT acquires your exact location from the GPS network and routes it through the SPOT satellite network. Your contacts receive either an SMS text message on their mobile phone with your message and coordinates, or an email with your message and a link to Google Maps™ showing your exact location."
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
"Bishop is blessed with perfect climbing conditions. Not only is the climate perfect for climbing with only 6" average annual rainfall, and over 300 days sunshine, the crags and boulders that surround the town are world class."
Don't you wish you could've gone with her shoes?
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Monday, July 14, 2008
The Warden finally reported in. (Oh, yeah, I called him to see how his trip was. But that's about the same as him calling me, right?)
Anyway, they did all the 5.6s in Spearfish - there are 4. They did one of the 5.7s - there are 2. They did lots of other climbs and saw very few people. Weather was good - no rain. Good coffee. 'Nuff said. No photos.
Here's one of the 5.11s he onsighted.
This isn't a climb they did, but it is a climb in Spearfish. So, close enough.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Here are some photos of the climb area and our cabin. The first is me finishing a gully area and our cabin. The next is the right side of the climb area, middle and then the left side. The fourth photo is the tower directly behind us.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Here's Mike's report from Friday at Spearfish:
"We were at the Big Picture Gully area. Super fun.Ward onsighted 11a. Finished on a really fun 10aat the end: "Everything's Big in Texas." Big moveson good holds. Good final pump!Coffee is perfect!!
Friday, July 11, 2008
You know how this works, right? I was following some links around the 'net - don't even remember where I started (Oh yeah, I started on my keyboard.) - and came across this:
"El Potrero Chico (the "little corral") is a sport-climbing paradise, with limestone similar to Thailand and routes up to 20 pitches in length."
20 pitches of a bolted sport route? Sure enough, here it is:
"Time Wave Zero is one of the longest routes at El Potrero Chico. The route is about 2,300 feet and is listed as 23 pitches in the guidebook, although it is possible to climb the route in as few as 13 pitches with a 60m cord."
Looks like winter is the time to go. Fun, huh?
Our power was out for 8 hours but I'm totally self-sufficient so no problemo. In preparation for these events, I've stored plenty of water, mucho food, and power galore.
My water, I keep in pipes underground that run all the way up to a big tower on a hill near me. Food is kept in a large, fully refrigerated warehouse area I call "Costco." Power, I get from my generator which uses gas that I store in big tanks I've named "Superamerica." So I am always prepared for a disaster.
I painted a closet today and finally worked my way out of it. I don't like being in the closet; it's confining, no one can see me, it's dark and I get all hot and sticky.
So I thought I'd reward myself and finish a video of our climbing last Wednesday at Red Wing.
If the player doesn't work click here.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Even though some of the stalwarts were gone - Mike, Ward and Mel-lo (interestingly enough, all three of them are currently in the Black Hills. Hmmmm...) - a group of us gathered to climb at RW. Ron had "Rock Flu" so he had to see Dr. P. who was at the Cliff Clinic this morning along with John and Sunbeam and me.
We also did a new exploratory climb to the right of Cool for Cats, as of yet unnamed. Some suggested names include: Broken Hold, Lisa- Watch Out Below, Pull Hard - You're Almost There, or Ron Went First. This climb was chossy, manky with high degree of funkness.
Photos of the day are at this link.
Or slideshow below.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Monday, July 7, 2008
Now this is the way to rest on a ledge so you're prepared for the next big pitch. (There's a lesson to learn from this video: please help your climbing partners get up on the ledge.)
If player doesn't work, watch it here.
I know the "A" team - Mike, The Warden and Todd - are off to Spearfish this week. They may or may not email us with updates. (Mike might do that, I know Ward won't.) We'd especially like to know which type of coffee helps them climb the best.
I'd like to know if anyone is interested in climbing in the Black Hills area near the end of July. I'm somewhat open to dates and am thinking it'd be a 4 day trip. Let me know.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Based on what Mike told me today about your trip to Spearfish and the necessity of getting good coffee there, I found a song for you. But after 2 hours of trying to post it , I turned it into a video. (It's racy so guard your children's eyes.)
If the above player doesn't work, click here.
This is brief but there were a few of us there. So more posts are expected.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Friday, July 4, 2008
Oh ya and I found a nickel to go with the two pennies I found on Wed. I’ll be able to fund a new pair of shoes in 2020 at this rate!
Have a great 4th.