Sunday, February 28, 2010

Update from the Planet of Ender

Russell asked about the height of the peaks that Em has been climbing, there is a clue here, I think this says, Maly Fatranski Krivan 1671m which would be 5482 feet. Kinda Appalachian sized.

On the map above, you can see in the upper right hand corner, a town called Martin. That is where she lives, this peak is the second one to the left of Martin.

On the home front, Mr. Levi did well in the Best of the Midewest. He said the sending pants performed well. He did not place in the top 3. He said there were a lot of strong guys there. He had a good time. So he wins!

Speed Is Safety

In Alpine terrain, the faster you can move, the safer you usually are. But this guy is phenomenal – he averages 30 feet/minute climbing the Eiger and Matterhorn. But he’s going solo so he doesn’t have to worry about that silly nonsense with a belay.

Marble Canyon Ice Climbing

Somewhere in B.C., Lisa’s friend Will Gadd solo ice climbs.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Levi to Compete in Best of the Midwest

His sponsor gave him some special “sending”pants but he made his own t shirt to promote his sponsor. I hope he does well. Good Luck Levi.


Click here for more about this competition.  

Ice Climbing Saturday

Much of the ice was melted at the Franklin falls., but there were plenty of big icicles and some great wet dry tooling where the water was running.

Bridal Veil Falls

Known more prosaically as the Franklin Bridge street run-off, frozen gully and dangerous approach place. A slide show of climbing there on Saturday.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Em's Slovakian Summit in Winter

Em and Hannah went trekking just outside if Martin Slovakia.

How do you say that in Slovak, Em? What is the name of this peak?

World’s Most Dangerous Hike?

Don’t know if it’s true but it sure looks like it’s fun. (His language gets a little sassy when he gets scared.)

Women’s Climbing Shoe

There’s a discussion on Facebook about how no one makes an aggressive women's-specific bouldering shoe. I just designed one below. It’s aggressive, yet it’s fashionable and perfect for heel hooking, don’t you think?


women's clmbg shoe

North Face Movie On Friday

Bloomington REI — North Face the Movie - Special Free Screening

  • Time: 6:00 p.m. - 8:15 p.m. (CST)
  • Leader: REI Specialist
  • Group Size: 100

It looks like it’s already fully registered. But there’s a waiting list.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Women In Climbing

Quite a lively discussion here about women vs men and the apparent gap in ability to climb the hardest routes. Here’s a short quote from the article:

“In America, 2008 was a pretty good year for women’s bouldering, in terms of difficulty. Lisa Rands made an awesome ascent of the Mandala V12 in Bishop.

Angie Payne climbed European Human Being V12, in RMNP, Alex Johnson climbed Clear Blue Skies V11/12 at Mt. Evans, and Alex Puccio did CBS, The Marble V11 or V12, and most impressively Trice V12 on Flagstaff Mtn. This year Puccio added The Gentleman’s Project V11, The Maze of Death V12, and several other V11s to her ticklist.

During the same two years the top men flashed several V13s (including a V14) and established problems up to V15, one of which is 25ft tall. It would be hard to argue that the gap hasn’t grown. Have women fallen behind, or is this gap appropriate? Should there be any gap?”

Read the whole thing esp. the comments. (Don’t worry the comments are thoughtful not flaming.) This article from Slate calls climbing the only “gender-blind” sport.

As usual, I have a few comments on this.

  • Does it matter if women and men can do the same climbs? Many men can’t do the same climbs as other men.
  • Maybe women have more important things to do that to spend so much time throwing themselves up a rock.
  • Women are superior to men in everything else; how ‘bout you throw us a bone here?

“Perhaps You Might Consider Doing Some Training”

That’s what the nattering nabob of negativity in the video says to his athlete friend. And just like that striving athlete in the video, I know it’s not more training that separates me from the pros, it’s not having the right stuff. Like this guy in the video, training will only take me so far. Expensive gear will get me the rest of the way.

Strongest Way To Connect 2 Slings

It’s the Climer knot shown above according to tests by Black Diamond. But the strop bend was a close second.


Girth Hitch

Strop Bend

Climer’s Hitch

Kolin Powick’s (of Black Diamond) conclusions are below:


As always, I must state a disclaimer that these findings are somewhat unofficial—just some information to think about. I’m not a climbing guide and don’t even play one on TV. These experiments are NOT all inclusive or totally encompassing by any means—much more testing would be required in order to come to any firm conclusions. It is important that all climbers use their best judgment out in the hills.

First off, our results were very comparable to Chris Harmston’s findings, and I agree with his recommendations—before you join two slings together think about the following:

  • Is it possible to use a longer sling altogether?
  • If you need to join to slings, using a carabiner is stronger

And in addition:

  • If you must join two slings, use the same materials and width
  • Symmetrical knots (like the Strop Bend and Climber’s Hitch) appear to perform better than a standard Girth Hitch when joining two slings together.”

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Only 150 Days to Hike Across the Himalaya Range

A new trail system called the Great Himalaya Trail

“… will run roughly 2800 miles in length, crossing through five countries in the process. Thru-hikers can expect the entire route to require approximately 150 days to complete, as they march through Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, India, and Pakistan. And if you don't have 5 months to dedicate to walking the longest high altitude trail in the world, fear not. The GHT will be broken down into seven smaller segments, each taking between 18-35 day to finish, allowing travelers on a time constraint to still have a chance to experience its wonders.”

Pin Fest

I sent a message in a bottle to Custer SD. One reply so far. Daryl from Sylvan Rocks sez....

"You know, I dont' know...I bet it will be discussed at tonights BH Climbers club meeting. I need to update my black hills events page, so check that out in the next week or so and if I know, I'll sure try to pass it on."

Never Even Thought Of It

I saw this photo of George Mallory – lost on Everest in 1924 – and his friends hiking in the nude. Apparently he started a fad; nude mountain climbing is such a fad, that the Nepal government wants to outlaw it on Mt Everest. Here’s a case in Germany of

“Ten German nudists may have to give up their hobby of naked mountain climbing after one of the men was arrested for indecent exposure.”

Here’s a recent article about climbing in New Zealand.

A naked male attempting to climb Mt Taranaki has staggered experienced mountain guides.

Veteran guide Ian McAlpine yesterday pleaded with climbers to show some common sense.

He said he was very concerned with the lack of protective warm clothing and equipment among people trying to reach the summit.”

I know lots of mountain climbers want to be buff before they climb, but I always thought that meant something else.

Shoes & Climbing

Just got another new pair of slightly used shoes – thanks Mike – and in order to prove the fact that shoes have the biggest impact of any gear on my climbing ability, I went to Willow on Tuesday to work on one of my projects. The shoes worked great as you can see in this 4 second video.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

“Fun Hog Expedition”

Two of the climbers in the photo above became very wealthy businessmen who have bought millions of acres of land in Patagonia to preserve. One of them started North Face, then sold that company and founded Espirit. The other one founded Patagonia and still owns it. So remember, the more stuff you buy, the more you help others preserve land for future generations. A new book about their drive down to Patagonia from the US and then subsequent climb of Mt Fitz Roy is here.

This Would Be Super Fab

If you’re a kid - or know one – this Mini Muddy Buddy Race at Afton Alps this August would be super fab.




Bring the kids (ages 4-13) and let them get in on the muddy action. The Columbia Mini Muddy Buddy offers a chance for the little ones to get muddier than they ever have before! The race features:

  • a short obstacle course before the kids enter the mud pit!
  • Kids will have a chance to come play in the mud with their friends, just like their parents
  • Register online or on race day (if space is available) Kids do NOT need a bike or a partner to participate.
  • Registration fee is $15 and includes: goodie bag, t-shirt, finisher’s medal, race bib. (*$5 from every registration is donated to the Challenged Athletes Foundation.)

*It is mandatory for children ages 4-6 to have a parent go through the mud pit with them.

Walking the Spine

For those of us with a touch of vertigo, this video is good training. Watch, starting at about 35 seconds, as these climbers walk the spine of “Ancient Art” outside Moab, Utah. (Below, I posted about 1 minute from the original video which is here.)

Craving Sunshine

OK, I admit, it’s the time of year I crave to feel sun on my arms and so I look at desert areas. I saw this article on “Five Easy Utah Towers” to climb. Ben, what about these for your upcoming trip?

Here’s the “Pickle.” How did it get that name?

Monday, February 22, 2010

Looks like Daryl went too.

Looks like all the cool kids are going to Potrero Chico. Daryl from Sylvan Rocks posted this repost on his website.

Potrero Chico Climbing - its as great as 'they' say it is.

Daryl Stisser - Thursday, February 18, 2010
So you think that routes such as the 23 pitch classic called Time Wave Zero that is made up of seemingly endless bolted limestone climbing sounds like a fun diversion to an otherwise gloomy winter? Well you are right. Load up the car, find a bus, book the plane...head down to Potrero Chico in Mexico for some fun climbing. Although it was not nearly as warm as we had hoped. It was actually great weather for climbing the long routes without carrying huge amounts of water. Over the course of the 11 days we were there, we took 2 rest days, ate nearly 50 eggs and countless avocados, enjoyed a few Caguama (big beers), meet some cool people, and climbed thousands and thousands of vertical feet of limestone.
click here for more. be sure to look at the photos

Russell Rides

The most popular ride at VE on Sunday night with the kids, was the “Russell Ride.” There was a line of kids to let Russell do this to them.

Oh, and at the end of the video, the biggest kid in the gym got a Russell Ride. (Not me! The other biggest kid in the gym. But I wanna Russell Ride too.)

These Guys Have The Moves Wired!

Tyler and Dan know all the good moves at VE. Just watch.

Richard On The Roof

No, not me. The really good climber named Richard. Here he is entertaining the kids. Impressive how he drops his feet and then brings them back up into a bat hang.

Sunday Climbing

Here’s what you can do after hip surgery and after a few months of not climbing. At least, here’s what Liz can do.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Cash to Burn

If you’re stuck in the mountains, be sure to have cash to burn so the rescuers can spot you. Like this snowboarder in the Austrian Alps did.

“As darkness fell, he began to burn paper handkerchiefs and the contents of his wallet with a cigarette lighter.”

It’s Raining Men

Photos of setting up VE for the “Passion for Flashin’” contest.





Friday, February 19, 2010

Climbing Takes Step Toward Olympics

Climbing shoe presented to IOC president Jacques Rogge in December.

Late last week, at the 122nd Session of the International Olympic Committee in Vancouver, the IOC formally recognized the International Federation of Sport Climbing as the sport’s governing body. That move, which followed provisional recognition in December 2007, makes it much more likely that climbers will compete in sport climbing, speed climbing, or bouldering at a future Summer Olympics.

Sports for the 2020 games, the next possible opening for climbing, will be selected in 2013.

Read more about the recent developments here and here.

Mountain Light

If you like rocks, trees, sunrises, I think you’ll like this video. More of these time lapse videos here.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Mocha Tapioca

That’s what one wall of Homer’s was like today – mocha tapioca. Pebbly, soft ice over wet sand. Very muddy fun. 

Photos here.

News Flash from Homer's Odessey

Richard broke in his new Black Diamond ice climbing tools today at Homers. He was sassy, he went strapless. Lap after lap he raced up the Mocha Tapioca routes, there were mud and rocks flying every where. It made me gritty. :) We diligently followed Will Gadd's ice tips.We....
  • kept our feet level
  • staggered our ice axe pokes
  • moved feet up twice as much as hands.
  • pushed with the hips!
  • we looked Looked! LOOKED at the ice
  • did a lot of grunting and yelling (that is KEY)
Will learned all this stuff from Johnny Mac, so of course he did fine. I still can't figure out why the mud didn't stick to his face....

Norway Ice Climbing


Will Gadd is climbing in Norway. Story here. I liked this quote:

“Darkness started to fall on us while we were 7 pitches off the deck and standing below a 50M+ column of glass soda straws held together by crazy-climber glue…”

Scottish Suffer Climbing

Zoe Hart, a Black Diamond athlete, describes the beauties of mixed climbing in Scotland - “Scottish Suffer Climbing” - here.

She learns there are lots of rules and to bring many pairs of gloves:

“So basically the rules are you can’t climb it when it’s easy?”

“Normally I take two pairs of gloves with me, but heeding my friends’ warnings, I’ve brought three. Simon pulls out seven pairs from his pack. You never know, he says, sometimes you need one for each pitch, one for the approach, and a last pair for the descent.”

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

No One Gets Away. Until They Whip It

And whip it good. That’s what the song says. So here’s Peter doing what the song suggests.


Striving for Success... and "Fallure"

By Chris Weidner, For the Camera

I first knew Jim Collins as the guy who set North American rock climbing standards in 1979 with his free ascent of Genesis (rated 5.12d but probably 5.13) in Boulder's Eldorado Canyon.
Collins, a Boulder native, became obsessed with free climbing this 100-foot vertical swath of red sandstone -- thought by many to be unclimbable -- as a student at Stanford University. After dozens of attempts in 1978, Collins "made a mental map of the holds" and, back at school, trained by climbing the sandstone walls of a building on campus.
"I trained between classes, carrying a needle in my shirt pocket to pop the blisters on my fingertips that arose from the regimen," he said. But still, Collins failed to free the route.
After much reflection, he realized that the barrier to success was primarily psychological. Collins predicted -- accurately -- that top climbers in the 1990s would view Genesis as a warm-up for even harder routes.
"I decided to pretend that it was not 1979, but 1994. I bought a little calendar and changed all the year dates. I walked into the canyon and tried to picture Genesis the way a 1990s climber would look at it."
With this fresh perspective, Collins soon freed the hardest route in America, if not the world.
Today, at 52, Collins is still an avid climber, but he's best known for authoring several chart-topping business and management books, which focus on the guts of enduring great companies. His latest book, "How the Mighty Fall" (May 2009), has already sold several million copies and has been translated into more than 30 languages.
Collins was on the faculty at the Stanford Graduate School of Business, where he received the Distinguished Teaching Award in 1992. In 1995, he founded a management laboratory in Boulder, where he focuses on research, writing and business consulting, including extensive work with nonprofits and education. He speaks publicly roughly 25 times a year, accepting only about 4 percent
One event at which Collins feels "privileged" to speak is the American Alpine Club's annual benefit and awards dinner in Englewood on Saturday. The American Alpine Club (, 107 years old, is based in Golden.
"What unifies us are the bonds, values and shared experience of climbing," Collins said on the phone last week. "That's what's cool about the AAC -- it's about the community."
On Saturday, Collins will discuss some universal principles he's discovered in business that are readily applicable to life. For example, the most important question is who (to hire, work for, climb with, etc.), not what. Collins said, "The most important part of climbing is the comradeship. The rock doesn't care if you get up it, but your partners do."
He'll discuss how the best leaders are humble, yet possess unbending will; that they aren't necessarily the most visionary, but the most disciplined.
Collins will talk about the Stockdale Paradox, that in order to be successful you must have unwavering faith that you'll prevail; yet you must confront the facts of your situation, however brutal they are. Collins argues that getting to the top is just one part of climbing success. Another component, he says, is climbing until "fallure," which he defines as "100 percent commitment to going up."
In fallure, you try your absolute best, and never let go, but gravity rips you off the wall. This, Collins says, is success. He continues, "In the end, climbing is not about conquering the rock; it is about conquering yourself."
The AAC will present four major awards to the who's who of American climbing: Royal Robbins, Doug Robinson, Conrad Anker and Mark Richey. Among the attendees will be world-famous Colorado climbers Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Emily Harrington, Jim Donini and dozens of others.

Collins' 2001 best-seller, "Good to Great," is the most influential book I've ever read. Technically about companies and management, it may as well be a guidebook for climbing and life. When he gave me this book five years ago, he signed it, "For Chris, climb to Fallure!" I've been striving for that ever since.
Read more: Weidner: Striving for success ... and 'fallure' - Boulder Daily Camera

“My Shins Are Pumped”

One of these climbers says “my shins are pumped” in an earlier video of the same route. I slightly shortened this video – the entire video is here along with more of the story.

Scott At VE

Here’s Scott demonstrating for the students at VE on Tuesday.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

“To Be Brave”

Royal Robbins was one of the legendary U.S rock climbers. He’s just published an autobiography called “To Be Brave.” There’s a 2 minute video interview with him here. In the interview, he’s asked if he would have done anything differently in his life. He says, “the only thing I would’ve done differently is have more children.” And “to be brave means doing the right thing even though you’re afraid…it’s something you shoot for, it’s not something you are.”

Do You Like Energy Bars?

Here’s a partial list of what Katie Spotz, after 34 days of rowing about halfway across the Atlantic, has eaten:

  • 300 Clif bars (lots of different flavors)
  • 210 dehydrated lunches/dinners
  • 98 dehydrated breakfast meals
  • 90 Snickers bars
  • 80 Bumble bars
  • 70 trail mix bags (small)

Full list of her food here.

Can’t Wait To Get One Of These For Winter

Right now, they’re more than $2000.00 which is kinda expensive for me to use just for winter walks in MN. But maybe in a coupla years?

Hanesbrands R&D team has developed a Super Suit that exceeds down's warmth and is just 3 mm thick (versus 40 mm for an Everest-grade down coat).

Pole Of Inaccessibility Remains Inaccessible

The Pole of Inaccessibility is defined as the farthest point from land on the Arctic Ocean and hasn’t been reached yet by people. It requires travel over 800 miles of the Arctic Ocean. This group wanted to go this year  but had to cancel because of the ice conditions.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Failure Is Always An Option

As I’ve been reviewing my climbing goals for last year, it occurred to me that I had a lot of failures.I know all the touchy-feely things you’re supposed to learn from failure, but still, failure is failure. So I came up with some new shirt designs. Tell me what you think. (H.T. Peter.)


Failure 1 Failure 2 Failure 3

Little More Than A Month Away

You can learn more and register here.

Sightseeing Is Inherently Dangerous

I’m painting the inside of our house so I keep finding photos that have been tucked away for years. Like this one of me in the emergency room of the Moab, Utah hospital.


I was biking the Porcupine Rim Trail with some friends and was going super fast trying to catch up with them. (Men are so competitive – especially the ones that are beating me.)

I looked up to view the scenery and then woke up a few minutes later. There was some concern among the others that after I woke up, I couldn’t remember things. (Hey, no big deal. I am always forgetting things, even today.) So I got on the bike and rode the rest of the approx. 17 miles to the hospital. The last few miles of this trail are shown in the video below. So the lesson is, don’t sightsee on a bike unless you have a belay.

Swarming Italians

and that is not all, check out this issue of Alpinist to hear about how these Italians were all over Nepal, climbing ice and un-named peaks such. I can’t tell you about the elevation as it was all done up in the metric system and all. But I do understand slopes of 85 degrees and broken ice tool shafts repaired with wire and duct tape and things of that nature. Read the article yourself and you will see photos such as this one.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Ice Climbing Techniques

This guy knows how to ice climb. Here’s his book he published in ‘09.

He has posted lots of ice climbing advice here on his blog. Such as:

“Solid feet make for relaxed hands. Kick twice as much as you swing.

Completely stand up and drive you hips into the ice.

If you get a stuck tool regularly you're likely placing them both at the same horizontal level. Don't.

Look at the ice. LOOK at the ice.

Swing with your elbow high, and the pick, head and shaft of the tool all in line with your wrist, forearm and upper arm.

If you want to be a better ice climber go hang a rope on a vertical piece of ice and climb it a whole lot. Like 200 or more times. With crampons off, on, no tools, one tool, etc. etc.”

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Don’t Step Back

Saw this photo on the Petzl website describing a bouldering trip to India.

Black Hills Climbers Coalition

BHCC February Meeting to be held in the new Crow Peak Brewery in Spearfish at 7:00 pm Wednesday February 24. Get together with fellow climbers and bring up any issues or feedback you'd like to share.
(FYI: happy hour from 4-7 )

Will Gadd's Endless Ascent

24 hours of ice climbing, fueled mostly by Red Bull. I am afraid if too many folks hear about this, my buddy Will, will lose custody of his body! This looks pretty brutal!

Rock climbing in the Olympics

What do you think? Do you want to see the heoros of climbing battling it out at the Olympic Games? Or do we want it to be separate and unique and untarnished by international politics? What do you think, express yourself!

Friday, February 12, 2010

Want Stronger Forearms?

Here’s a program to get there from the website “Climbstrong.”

I’d do the program except for this part:

When we train for forearm hypertrophy, it’s a painful, slow, and hard-training phase.”

Christmas Tree Pass

Russell and Tyler went to Christmas Tree Pass outside of Las Vegas a couple of weeks ago. Here’s a photo of them climbing “Stairway to Heaven.” I think initially they planned to climb at Red Rocks but it was so cold, they drove south to climb here.

I wanna climb like a GOAT!

More amazing photos of climbing goats can be found at this site.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

One Handed Bowline?

Who can do it?
Click here to see the animated version.

Jeff’s Ceiling Climb

Here’s Jeff showing the kids how the ceiling can be done.

Big Massive Whipper

Here’s Lisa’s “first big massive whipper for the day” as Aaron says in the video.

Mokis and Me

 MOQUI STEPS by Ama Laura.A few years ago, I spent 3 weeks around Moab, Utah building trails and hiking. A local told me about a Moki trail just outside of town and I went looking for it. The first set of Moki steps  I found were on a shallow angle slab, like the photo at left. These steps led up to a flat, dry creek bed, which I followed for a few yards to another cliff.


There were more steps leading higher. I climbed those and reached another plateau that led to an even steeper cliff.



Scan10003.BMPThis cliff had a big, dead tree leaning against it. But no more Moki steps. Dead end, darn. But I noticed it was possible to climb up the tree – at least partway - using the dead branches. So I did. After 10 feet of tree climbing, there were no more holds on the tree. That was it; I’d have to go down. I reached out onto the cliff face, and voila, more Moki steps. I climbed up to another plateau. And walked up the dry wash to the steepest cliff yet. I went up a few feet but then got too nervous to continue. There were more steps above me and more plateaus to walk. It’s still waiting there for you to find.






Climbing Slopers

How to train for and use slopers.




Wednesday, February 10, 2010

It’s Raining Men

Today was practice falling day at VE.

Dang it!

Sure, I took care of a kid and made soup and even made bread but I didn't get to fall off the ceiling. Shoot! So I decided to be a decent mom for once today and I missed all the fun. Where are the videos?? Show me some gol dang pictures!

This is my favorite photo of me as mom from a couple of years ago. See I am stuck reminiscing! Photos please!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Free South Africa

That’s the route these climbers did on the Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia. I like this quote “Doesn’t have to be fun to be fun.” Or this one, “There is definitely lots of suffering involved.” One of the guys is quite excited about being there. See if you can figure out which one.

Lynn Hill Bouldering

At Hueco Tanks, TX

Win Your Own Dream Trip

You can design your own adventure trip at this site and if they pick the trip you design, you will win it.

“The Create Your Own Adventure travel contest is designed to allow you to create your very own tour, with the winning entry being featured in our 2011 Gap Adventures brochure.

The winning entry, as determined by user voting and our panel of judges, will travel on the dream tour of their creation for free, along with two of their luckiest friends. Joining them will be five other winners from our Mystery Draw.”

Mount Everest

Ok, I am a geology geek watching the history channel about how Mount Everest was made. The top is limestone, the yellow band below it is marble and the base is granite. There are sea fossils at the top as it used to be underwater before India ran into Asia. It is still growing due to a India being forced underneath it. Gosh it's going to be even higher! After the rock of India get shoved underneath it gets hot and melty and rises up, up! Click here to see when it is on next so you can watch and learn stuff too. Does anyone besides Amy want to geek out with me about this? Oh I gotta go, they are going to tell me about the Grand Canyon now!

Monday, February 8, 2010

Women’s Sport Climbing Finals

From the National Sport Climbing competition in Sandy Utah about 3 weeks ago. For some reason, they all had the hardest time right at the crux. Interesting, huh?

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Flying From The Eiger

Here’s a short clip of Steph Davis wingsuit flying from the summit of the Eiger. The entire video is here. along with her story about it.


You don’t have to do much of this here in the Midwest, but if you’re anxious to learn how to haul a “pig” up a rope, this site is full of info

9 Out of 10 Climbers Book Review

On the “Mountains and Water” website is a review of Dave MacLeod’s new book . Some quotes from the review:

“MacLeod’s book is a healthy reminder how hard climbing can be and how it is to work out of a plateau…Early on he offers the thought that climbers are afraid of change more than anything else since change implies a risk of failure. Failure for many climbers is both personal and public, at least in their minds, and the sense of self-worth that climbing gives has an ugly side when climbing fails to deliver it…Ask yourself, he says, how much time you actually climb in a given training session. Maybe 30 minutes out of two or three hours? What are you doing in the meantime? If you aren’t focusing on remembering what worked, what didn’t, and thinking about why, you have cut the time value of the session by half or more by not learning from it when the experience is freshest.”

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Sshh! Don’t Tell Anyone

Next Friday, REI has their winter clearance sale. Usually they have super good deals; everything that ends with $.83 in the price, gets an additional 50% off. One year, I got a brand new 50M rope for $70. 

Friday, February 5, 2010

Climbing Overhanging Ice

This is the 2nd place finisher at the recent Ouray Ice Festival. At about 3 minutes into this video, there’s great footage of him climbing overhanging ice.


imageSome paleontologists recently figured out the colors of this feathered dinosaur. Cute, huh?



Kinda like today’s Silver Spangled Hamburg chickens. image