On the map above, you can see in the upper right hand corner, a town called Martin. That is where she lives, this peak is the second one to the left of Martin.
On the home front, Mr. Levi did well in the Best of the Midewest. He said the sending pants performed well. He did not place in the top 3. He said there were a lot of strong guys there. He had a good time. So he wins!
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Friday, February 26, 2010
Bloomington REI — North Face the Movie - Special Free Screening
- Date: 2/26/2010
- Event Location: Bloomington REI
- Event Fee: Free
- Time: 6:00 p.m. - 8:15 p.m. (CST)
- Leader: REI Specialist
- Group Size: 100
It looks like it’s already fully registered. But there’s a waiting list.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Quite a lively discussion here about women vs men and the apparent gap in ability to climb the hardest routes. Here’s a short quote from the article:
“In America, 2008 was a pretty good year for women’s bouldering, in terms of difficulty. Lisa Rands made an awesome ascent of the Mandala V12 in Bishop.
Angie Payne climbed European Human Being V12, in RMNP, Alex Johnson climbed Clear Blue Skies V11/12 at Mt. Evans, and Alex Puccio did CBS, The Marble V11 or V12, and most impressively Trice V12 on Flagstaff Mtn. This year Puccio added The Gentleman’s Project V11, The Maze of Death V12, and several other V11s to her ticklist.
During the same two years the top men flashed several V13s (including a V14) and established problems up to V15, one of which is 25ft tall. It would be hard to argue that the gap hasn’t grown. Have women fallen behind, or is this gap appropriate? Should there be any gap?”
Read the whole thing esp. the comments. (Don’t worry the comments are thoughtful not flaming.) This article from Slate calls climbing the only “gender-blind” sport.
As usual, I have a few comments on this.
- Does it matter if women and men can do the same climbs? Many men can’t do the same climbs as other men.
- Maybe women have more important things to do that to spend so much time throwing themselves up a rock.
- Women are superior to men in everything else; how ‘bout you throw us a bone here?
That’s what the nattering nabob of negativity in the video says to his athlete friend. And just like that striving athlete in the video, I know it’s not more training that separates me from the pros, it’s not having the right stuff. Like this guy in the video, training will only take me so far. Expensive gear will get me the rest of the way.
Kolin Powick’s (of Black Diamond) conclusions are below:
As always, I must state a disclaimer that these findings are somewhat unofficial—just some information to think about. I’m not a climbing guide and don’t even play one on TV. These experiments are NOT all inclusive or totally encompassing by any means—much more testing would be required in order to come to any firm conclusions. It is important that all climbers use their best judgment out in the hills.
First off, our results were very comparable to Chris Harmston’s findings, and I agree with his recommendations—before you join two slings together think about the following:
- Is it possible to use a longer sling altogether?
- If you need to join to slings, using a carabiner is stronger
And in addition:
- If you must join two slings, use the same materials and width
- Symmetrical knots (like the Strop Bend and Climber’s Hitch) appear to perform better than a standard Girth Hitch when joining two slings together.”
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
“… will run roughly 2800 miles in length, crossing through five countries in the process. Thru-hikers can expect the entire route to require approximately 150 days to complete, as they march through Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, India, and Pakistan. And if you don't have 5 months to dedicate to walking the longest high altitude trail in the world, fear not. The GHT will be broken down into seven smaller segments, each taking between 18-35 day to finish, allowing travelers on a time constraint to still have a chance to experience its wonders.”
"You know, I dont' know...I bet it will be discussed at tonights BH Climbers club meeting. I need to update my black hills events page, so check that out in the next week or so and if I know, I'll sure try to pass it on."
I saw this photo of George Mallory – lost on Everest in 1924 – and his friends hiking in the nude. Apparently he started a fad; nude mountain climbing is such a fad, that the Nepal government wants to outlaw it on Mt Everest. Here’s a case in Germany of
“Ten German nudists may have to give up their hobby of naked mountain climbing after one of the men was arrested for indecent exposure.”
Here’s a recent article about climbing in New Zealand.
“A naked male attempting to climb Mt Taranaki has staggered experienced mountain guides.
Veteran guide Ian McAlpine yesterday pleaded with climbers to show some common sense.
He said he was very concerned with the lack of protective warm clothing and equipment among people trying to reach the summit.”
I know lots of mountain climbers want to be buff before they climb, but I always thought that meant something else.
Just got another new pair of slightly used shoes – thanks Mike – and in order to prove the fact that shoes have the biggest impact of any gear on my climbing ability, I went to Willow on Tuesday to work on one of my projects. The shoes worked great as you can see in this 4 second video.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Two of the climbers in the photo above became very wealthy businessmen who have bought millions of acres of land in Patagonia to preserve. One of them started North Face, then sold that company and founded Espirit. The other one founded Patagonia and still owns it. So remember, the more stuff you buy, the more you help others preserve land for future generations. A new book about their drive down to Patagonia from the US and then subsequent climb of Mt Fitz Roy is here.
If you’re a kid - or know one – this Mini Muddy Buddy Race at Afton Alps this August would be super fab.
Bring the kids (ages 4-13) and let them get in on the muddy action. The Columbia Mini Muddy Buddy offers a chance for the little ones to get muddier than they ever have before! The race features:
- a short obstacle course before the kids enter the mud pit!
- Kids will have a chance to come play in the mud with their friends, just like their parents
- Register online or on race day (if space is available) Kids do NOT need a bike or a partner to participate.
- Registration fee is $15 and includes: goodie bag, t-shirt, finisher’s medal, race bib. (*$5 from every registration is donated to the Challenged Athletes Foundation.)
*It is mandatory for children ages 4-6 to have a parent go through the mud pit with them.
Monday, February 22, 2010
click here for more. be sure to look at the photos
The most popular ride at VE on Sunday night with the kids, was the “Russell Ride.” There was a line of kids to let Russell do this to them.
Oh, and at the end of the video, the biggest kid in the gym got a Russell Ride. (Not me! The other biggest kid in the gym. But I wanna Russell Ride too.)
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Friday, February 19, 2010
Climbing shoe presented to IOC president Jacques Rogge in December.Late last week, at the 122nd Session of the International Olympic Committee in Vancouver, the IOC formally recognized the International Federation of Sport Climbing as the sport’s governing body. That move, which followed provisional recognition in December 2007, makes it much more likely that climbers will compete in sport climbing, speed climbing, or bouldering at a future Summer Olympics.
Sports for the 2020 games, the next possible opening for climbing, will be selected in 2013.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
- kept our feet level
- staggered our ice axe pokes
- moved feet up twice as much as hands.
- pushed with the hips!
- we looked Looked! LOOKED at the ice
- did a lot of grunting and yelling (that is KEY)
Zoe Hart, a Black Diamond athlete, describes the beauties of mixed climbing in Scotland - “Scottish Suffer Climbing” - here.
She learns there are lots of rules and to bring many pairs of gloves:
“So basically the rules are you can’t climb it when it’s easy?”
“Normally I take two pairs of gloves with me, but heeding my friends’ warnings, I’ve brought three. Simon pulls out seven pairs from his pack. You never know, he says, sometimes you need one for each pitch, one for the approach, and a last pair for the descent.”
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
I first knew Jim Collins as the guy who set North American rock climbing standards in 1979 with his free ascent of Genesis (rated 5.12d but probably 5.13) in Boulder's Eldorado Canyon.
Collins, a Boulder native, became obsessed with free climbing this 100-foot vertical swath of red sandstone -- thought by many to be unclimbable -- as a student at Stanford University. After dozens of attempts in 1978, Collins "made a mental map of the holds" and, back at school, trained by climbing the sandstone walls of a building on campus.
"I trained between classes, carrying a needle in my shirt pocket to pop the blisters on my fingertips that arose from the regimen," he said. But still, Collins failed to free the route.
After much reflection, he realized that the barrier to success was primarily psychological. Collins predicted -- accurately -- that top climbers in the 1990s would view Genesis as a warm-up for even harder routes.
"I decided to pretend that it was not 1979, but 1994. I bought a little calendar and changed all the year dates. I walked into the canyon and tried to picture Genesis the way a 1990s climber would look at it."
With this fresh perspective, Collins soon freed the hardest route in America, if not the world.
Today, at 52, Collins is still an avid climber, but he's best known for authoring several chart-topping business and management books, which focus on the guts of enduring great companies. His latest book, "How the Mighty Fall" (May 2009), has already sold several million copies and has been translated into more than 30 languages.
Collins was on the faculty at the Stanford Graduate School of Business, where he received the Distinguished Teaching Award in 1992. In 1995, he founded a management laboratory in Boulder, where he focuses on research, writing and business consulting, including extensive work with nonprofits and education. He speaks publicly roughly 25 times a year, accepting only about 4 percent
One event at which Collins feels "privileged" to speak is the American Alpine Club's annual benefit and awards dinner in Englewood on Saturday. The American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org), 107 years old, is based in Golden.
"What unifies us are the bonds, values and shared experience of climbing," Collins said on the phone last week. "That's what's cool about the AAC -- it's about the community."
On Saturday, Collins will discuss some universal principles he's discovered in business that are readily applicable to life. For example, the most important question is who (to hire, work for, climb with, etc.), not what. Collins said, "The most important part of climbing is the comradeship. The rock doesn't care if you get up it, but your partners do."
He'll discuss how the best leaders are humble, yet possess unbending will; that they aren't necessarily the most visionary, but the most disciplined.
Collins will talk about the Stockdale Paradox, that in order to be successful you must have unwavering faith that you'll prevail; yet you must confront the facts of your situation, however brutal they are. Collins argues that getting to the top is just one part of climbing success. Another component, he says, is climbing until "fallure," which he defines as "100 percent commitment to going up."
In fallure, you try your absolute best, and never let go, but gravity rips you off the wall. This, Collins says, is success. He continues, "In the end, climbing is not about conquering the rock; it is about conquering yourself."
The AAC will present four major awards to the who's who of American climbing: Royal Robbins, Doug Robinson, Conrad Anker and Mark Richey. Among the attendees will be world-famous Colorado climbers Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Emily Harrington, Jim Donini and dozens of others.
Collins' 2001 best-seller, "Good to Great," is the most influential book I've ever read. Technically about companies and management, it may as well be a guidebook for climbing and life. When he gave me this book five years ago, he signed it, "For Chris, climb to Fallure!" I've been striving for that ever since.
Read more: Weidner: Striving for success ... and 'fallure' - Boulder Daily Camera
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Royal Robbins was one of the legendary U.S rock climbers. He’s just published an autobiography called “To Be Brave.” There’s a 2 minute video interview with him here. In the interview, he’s asked if he would have done anything differently in his life. He says, “the only thing I would’ve done differently is have more children.” And “to be brave means doing the right thing even though you’re afraid…it’s something you shoot for, it’s not something you are.”
Here’s a partial list of what Katie Spotz, after 34 days of rowing about halfway across the Atlantic, has eaten:
- 300 Clif bars (lots of different flavors)
- 210 dehydrated lunches/dinners
- 98 dehydrated breakfast meals
- 90 Snickers bars
- 80 Bumble bars
- 70 trail mix bags (small)
Full list of her food here.
Right now, they’re more than $2000.00 which is kinda expensive for me to use just for winter walks in MN. But maybe in a coupla years?
The Pole of Inaccessibility is defined as the farthest point from land on the Arctic Ocean and hasn’t been reached yet by people. It requires travel over 800 miles of the Arctic Ocean. This group wanted to go this year but had to cancel because of the ice conditions.
Monday, February 15, 2010
As I’ve been reviewing my climbing goals for last year, it occurred to me that I had a lot of failures.I know all the touchy-feely things you’re supposed to learn from failure, but still, failure is failure. So I came up with some new shirt designs. Tell me what you think. (H.T. Peter.)
I’m painting the inside of our house so I keep finding photos that have been tucked away for years. Like this one of me in the emergency room of the Moab, Utah hospital.
I was biking the Porcupine Rim Trail with some friends and was going super fast trying to catch up with them. (Men are so competitive – especially the ones that are beating me.)
I looked up to view the scenery and then woke up a few minutes later. There was some concern among the others that after I woke up, I couldn’t remember things. (Hey, no big deal. I am always forgetting things, even today.) So I got on the bike and rode the rest of the approx. 17 miles to the hospital. The last few miles of this trail are shown in the video below. So the lesson is, don’t sightsee on a bike unless you have a belay.
and that is not all, check out this issue of Alpinist to hear about how these Italians were all over Nepal, climbing ice and un-named peaks such. I can’t tell you about the elevation as it was all done up in the metric system and all. But I do understand slopes of 85 degrees and broken ice tool shafts repaired with wire and duct tape and things of that nature. Read the article yourself and you will see photos such as this one.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
This guy knows how to ice climb. Here’s his book he published in ‘09.
He has posted lots of ice climbing advice here on his blog. Such as:
“Solid feet make for relaxed hands. Kick twice as much as you swing.
Completely stand up and drive you hips into the ice.
If you get a stuck tool regularly you're likely placing them both at the same horizontal level. Don't.
Look at the ice. LOOK at the ice.
Swing with your elbow high, and the pick, head and shaft of the tool all in line with your wrist, forearm and upper arm.
If you want to be a better ice climber go hang a rope on a vertical piece of ice and climb it a whole lot. Like 200 or more times. With crampons off, on, no tools, one tool, etc. etc.”
Saturday, February 13, 2010
(FYI: happy hour from 4-7 )
Friday, February 12, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
A few years ago, I spent 3 weeks around Moab, Utah building trails and hiking. A local told me about a Moki trail just outside of town and I went looking for it. The first set of Moki steps I found were on a shallow angle slab, like the photo at left. These steps led up to a flat, dry creek bed, which I followed for a few yards to another cliff.
There were more steps leading higher. I climbed those and reached another plateau that led to an even steeper cliff.
This cliff had a big, dead tree leaning against it. But no more Moki steps. Dead end, darn. But I noticed it was possible to climb up the tree – at least partway - using the dead branches. So I did. After 10 feet of tree climbing, there were no more holds on the tree. That was it; I’d have to go down. I reached out onto the cliff face, and voila, more Moki steps. I climbed up to another plateau. And walked up the dry wash to the steepest cliff yet. I went up a few feet but then got too nervous to continue. There were more steps above me and more plateaus to walk. It’s still waiting there for you to find.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Sure, I took care of a kid and made soup and even made bread but I didn't get to fall off the ceiling. Shoot! So I decided to be a decent mom for once today and I missed all the fun. Where are the videos?? Show me some gol dang pictures!
This is my favorite photo of me as mom from a couple of years ago. See I am stuck reminiscing! Photos please!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
That’s the route these climbers did on the Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia. I like this quote “Doesn’t have to be fun to be fun.” Or this one, “There is definitely lots of suffering involved.” One of the guys is quite excited about being there. See if you can figure out which one.
You can design your own adventure trip at this site and if they pick the trip you design, you will win it.
“The Create Your Own Adventure travel contest is designed to allow you to create your very own tour, with the winning entry being featured in our 2011 Gap Adventures brochure.
The winning entry, as determined by user voting and our panel of judges, will travel on the dream tour of their creation for free, along with two of their luckiest friends. Joining them will be five other winners from our Mystery Draw.”
Ok, I am a geology geek watching the history channel about how Mount Everest was made. The top is limestone, the yellow band below it is marble and the base is granite. There are sea fossils at the top as it used to be underwater before India ran into Asia. It is still growing due to a India being forced underneath it. Gosh it's going to be even higher! After the rock of India get shoved underneath it gets hot and melty and rises up, up! Click here to see when it is on next so you can watch and learn stuff too. Does anyone besides Amy want to geek out with me about this? Oh I gotta go, they are going to tell me about the Grand Canyon now!
Monday, February 8, 2010
Sunday, February 7, 2010
On the “Mountains and Water” website is a review of Dave MacLeod’s new book . Some quotes from the review:
“MacLeod’s book is a healthy reminder how hard climbing can be and how it is to work out of a plateau…Early on he offers the thought that climbers are afraid of change more than anything else since change implies a risk of failure. Failure for many climbers is both personal and public, at least in their minds, and the sense of self-worth that climbing gives has an ugly side when climbing fails to deliver it…Ask yourself, he says, how much time you actually climb in a given training session. Maybe 30 minutes out of two or three hours? What are you doing in the meantime? If you aren’t focusing on remembering what worked, what didn’t, and thinking about why, you have cut the time value of the session by half or more by not learning from it when the experience is freshest.”