Saturday, May 9, 2009

Access Fund Climbers Forum 2009 Summary

Here's the summery of the meeting the Mel and I attended as the funwithrocks representatives.

Access Fund Climbers Forum: Summary
Friday, April 24, 2009
Midwest Mountaineering Outdoor Expo, Minneapolis, Minnesota
Moderator: Kaija Webster (Access Fund, University of Minnesota Duluth Climbing School)

Thanks to everyone who participated this year. Here’s a summary of what we discussed. If you’ve got additions or changes to this, just let me know.

Access Fund/ Minnesota Climbers Association News:
- Glenn Burns gave the update on the MCA. The website is updated. Please use it to communicate.
Ice Climbing in St. Paul City Parks
- this year local climbers through the MCA/Access Fund sponsored a clean up at the Brickyards in Lillydale
- 8 huge bags of trash were removed this year
- the event will happen again in mid-April of next year

Guide Insurance
- the Minnesota State Parks have raised the insurance limits that guide services are required to carry in order to obtain a special use permit.
- (Follow up: I spoke with a ranger at Tettegouche and he said the insurance requirement was raised across the board to all contractors including plumbers, electricians and garbage haulers. He thought it might be that the state pay out limits were raised and so they are paying more per claim than before.)

Area News: (If a climbing area doesn’t appear in the News, it just means it didn’t come up in the discussion this year.)

New Routes/Areas
- look on for details

Red Wing
- fires and vandalism is an ongoing problem. Be sure to set a good example when you climb there. Pick up trash and take part in service days. The city knows climbers have spent service time at Barn Bluff and that’s a good thing.

- Bolting of established routes is happening along with some new route development

Bouldering Accrosss the river from Quarry Park
- Jeff Engle has been in contact with the landowner who is not opposed to climbers accessing the boulders on his property. Details of the agreement are still in process.
- Despite the appearance of some published maps, the boulders are on private property, not parkland.
- If you use the boulders, respect private property, park in the farthest driveway pullout by a gate on the far side of the river.
- Additional details to be posted on the MCA website

Casket Quarry
- James Loveridge gave the update, there are nearly 20 mixed routes in the Quarry bolted for leading!
- Remember, Casket is full of loose rock and ice so be aware and climb when the rock is frozen

- This new crag near Hammond, Mn has 16-17 new bolted routes, Shawn Tracey gave an update
- It’s on private land but the owner is aware and supportive

Ely’s Peak
- Remember to use the new climbers’ parking lot and trail , not the one in the guidebook or your car may be towed. The new lot is about a quarter mile north of the 123rd Avenue turn off to the old access parking.

Minnesota State Parks
- Don’t forget to pick up your Free climbing permit this spring at each state park in which you climb.
- Say hello to park staff when you see t hem, thank them for their great climbing areas
- North Shore state parks still ask that climbers not leave traces of chalk (this includes Palisade Head, Shovel Point and Carlton Peak)

Shovel Point
- Some top anchors are installed on more popular routes. They are meant to control clifftop erosion. Pleas use.
- These hangars are designed to move and change direction of pull, so don’t be alarmed when they swing

Palisade Head:
(breaking news) There is a nesting closure for a pair of peregrine falcons on the north end of Palisade. The routes from Hidden Agenda through Poseidon Adventure are closed until the chicks fledge – probably by early July.

Upcoming Service Days:
Brickyard Clean Up / Adopt-A-Crag - April 11, 2009
Robinson Park Clean Up / Adopt-A-Crag - April 25, 2009
Taylors Falls Clean Up / Adopt-A-Crag - May 31, 2009
Blue Mounds Clean Up / Adapt-A-Crag - June 5, 2009
Barn Bluff Clean Up / Adapt-A-Crag - June 28, 2009
North Shore Clean Up / Adapt-A-Crag - September 13, 2009
Willow River – usually in October, TBA

Climbers Gatherings:
- Blue Mounds Gathering June 5 – 7, 2009
- North Shore Gathering Labor Day weekend 2009
- Devil’s Lake Gathering October 2 – 4, 2009
- Sandstone Ice Fest December 2009


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