Saturday, October 31, 2009

Aaron 2.0 in Oregon

Looks like our friend Aaron has discovered that there is life beyond being a climber in Minnesota. His sewed the costume himself! He is a renaissance man.
Seems like only yesterday, I was showing him how to drive on a frozen lake, sniff. It's hard when the kids move away!

Born To Run

Is the title of a book I’m reading. I got the book because it talked about the Tarahumara Indians of the Copper Canyon in Mexico and we visited the Copper Canyon about a year ago. So I thought it’d be about exploring the canyons down there. And there is some of that. But it’s really about how humans are evolutionarily designed to run.

And, here was a shock - we are better off running without expensive, arch-supporting shoes. Lots of empirical studies he mentions in his book back that statement up.

A quote from the book I like: “Make friends with pain and you will never be alone.” (Ouch, that hurts.)

Friday, October 30, 2009

Let’s Go Dan

You’ll see why I call this video “Let’s Go Dan,” if you listen to the first 30 seconds or so of Dan climbing on the ceiling for a bunch of kids.


Run, Turkey, Run

On Thanksgiving morning,  there is the annual 5K Turkey Day run.  Lisa and Mel are running in it. Why don’t you? (That’s only 3 miles, people.  I bet you can run that far.)

Here’s where you can sign up online or you can sign up at any REI store.

If you’re gonna get stuffed later that day, might as well make some room for it by running a short distance.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Congratulations Liz

imageShe took her lead test on Wednesday and passed it with flying colors – and cheering multitudes.

I wasn’t there and didn’t take any video of her several leads on Wednesday. But I was able to make a slide show of lead climbing at the gym with my new camera and new software. (I have had some problems with my new HD video camera and my new software.


But I figgered it all out and the result is below.)

Remember, this is not Liz lead climbing at the gym, it is only a simulation.


Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Hardest Aid Climb

Possibly the hardest aid climb has just been done on the Fisher Towers near Moab, Utah. (Russell and Ryan just got back from climbing Fisher Tower.)

I like this part:

“A total of 13 days was needed to complete 315m of climbing, some pitches taking as much as 17 hours to overcome.”

Prior to this climb, the hardest aid route was rated A6. This route is rated A6+ ; at least until someone else climbs it and downgrades it. Unlike most climbs on the tower, they did not put in any bolts for their belays, relying on the hooks you can see below. Another article here.


Here’s their bivouac tent on the wall; more photos here including the umbrella they used for shade while climbing.

There was another recent new hard aid climb done in the same area and that story is here. They used 25 of these peckers in a row (hey, that’s what they’re called!) on a 90 foot pitch.

So imagine these little beaks are what holds you to the wall and you have no other natural rock holds for hands or feet. Fun, huh? Anyone wanna try this here?

Here’s Jen At VE

I’ve been using my new HD video camera and my new editing software and I’ve learned:

  • I can get software for a low price that does way more stuff than I will ever have time to learn.
  • Every time I buy some new stuff, I have to buy other stuff to keep up with what I just bought; i.e. I realize I now have to buy a new computer if I really want to utilize my new camera and editing software. Que sera, sera.

Here is a video – without any audio – of Jen climbing one of her challenge routes. It’s a little jumpy because I need a new computer. Drats. But it is HD.

Seven Summits and 54 Fourteeners

Climbing the Seven Summits Success Story!
11/30/2009 7:00 PM
Please join us as extreme-endurance athlete, Troy Aupperle, shares his video and pictures from his recent summit of Mt. Everest on May 22nd and the completion of his quest for the "Seven Summits". His goal to set an American record was thwarted by logistic issues as well as international politics, but he persevered and still managed to complete it in the third fastest American time. Troy began his climbing career at REI, Inc. while managing the Climbing department at the Tempe store. He went through the beginning climbing course at AMC and met his eventual climbing mentor. Looking ahead to the next two years Troy will join the "Colorado Club" as he finishes the last of the 54 peaks over 14,000' as well as the High Pointers Club - climbing the highest point in each of the fifty states.
Location:REI Roseville
Contact:Customer Service 651-635-0211
Cost: Free

Monday, October 26, 2009

Bats In The Boulder Cave

This is a new boulder problem that is popular with the young, strong ‘uns. Here’s Zach.

The Classics

Mountain Project has a list of “Classics” for each of the areas it tracks. For example, at Red Wing, here is the list":

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barn Bluff (Red Wing):

The Perfect Crimb   5.9    

Looking for Lust   5.9    

Micro Balls   5.9+   

Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag   5.10a    

Frequent Flatulence   5.10b    

Barnburner   5.10d    

Annadonia   5.11b    

A Drilling Experience   5.11b  

Roof Burner   5.11   

Doctor Limit   5.11b/c   

Suicide Squeeze   5.11c    

Advanced Birding   5.11+    

Work Ethic   5.11d    

Chinese Freedom   5.11d    

Cyclops   5.12a    

Demystification   5.12a   

Preemptive Strike   5.12b    

Living All Over Me   5.12b   

Mississippi Burning   5.12c    

Paradigm Shift   5.13a  

Browse More Classics in Barn Bluff (Red Wing)

For Taylors Falls:

B2 Bomber   V4   

Sonny and Juanita   5.5   

Rose Bush   5.5    

Blue Moon   5.5   

The Other One   5.5    

The Column   5.6    

Keyhole   5.6    

Piece of Cake   5.7   

Piece of Pie   5.8    

Double Cracks a.k.a. Hamburger Crack   5.9    

Good Knight   5.9    

Keyhole Direct   5.9   

Fallen Knight   5.9    

Column Direct   5.9+   

Slicksides   5.9+    

The Real Thing   5.10a    

Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge   5.10a   

Fancy Dancer   5.11b    

Lunge or Plunge   5.12- V4    

Browse More Classics in Interstate SP (Taylors Falls)