Saturday, November 30, 2013

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Our Trad Climbing Clinic

This was probably the last clinic I'll teach this year on rock. There were 3 climbers last week at Taylors and we had a blast. It was so slow at Taylors, that I let Buddy off the leash and he did his own independent tour of the potholes. What a good dog!

(You know, I realized today I now have enough trad gear so 3 people can set anchors and do leads using my gear simultaneously. And I just ordered some more gear. Can't have enough gear.)

Climbing Yosemite Royal Arches With An 11-Year-Old

The kid was mostly taken up the route by the Smileys, but still, it's kinda fun to watch.

Friday, November 15, 2013

Making Some New Routes

Ron, Peter and I went to Arcola today to bolt some new routes. We only got one route finished; on a bridge pier right on the river. It's been top roped, not done on lead yet. 5.9ish? Some photos below.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

"The Pain Closet"

A trip report of the Smileys climbing the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock in Yosemite. Here's a photo of him trying to get through the "Narrows." This is the section of the climb they called "the pain closet." He didn't make it on his own; his wife used a 3:1 pulley system to help get him through the tightest spot.

Here's a description of this spot on mountainproject:

"One must drop one's feet and figure out some way to make upwards progress in a squeeze chimney using only body parts from the hips up. I managed this by using the back of my head on the back wall to pull my body upwards while simultaneously exhaling, then taking a deep breath to hold that position while I groped for a higher purchase with the back of my head. Hey, it worked. Gear for inside The Narrows really isn't necessary, but a fist-size cam (#3.5 Camalot/#4 C4) works well to protect the initial moves. For most of this you feel pretty alone with only the sound of your own gasping, and the tinkling sound of the hangers on the old aid bolts blowing freely in the wind on the outside of the slot, for company. Perhaps you'll wish you were out there hanging from those bolts, but persevere -- eventually things will start going a little more quickly."

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Biking In Sedona

Why would anyone want to climb here, when you can bike? The town is overrun with mountain bikers. They've built tunnels under the highway so the mountain bikers don't have to cross the road. It's quite something. Oh, and there's climbing around here too.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

What You Can Do With A Rope & Some Mechanical Advantage

We had our first early morning clinic at VEM on Saturday. Here I am raising Liz and Marianna with a 9:1 pulley system.