Saturday, December 25, 2010

What Happens When All The Hard Sport Routes Done?

If you’re like these guys, you lead them on trad gear. This is the story of a 5.14 R/X at the New River Gorge that was recently led on all trad gear. I like this quote:

I placed two number one Camalots in the first 25 feet. From here things start getting a little more sporty.   The run out to the next gear placement is about 20 feet up and 10 feet to the left with the difficulty increasing with every move. The placement is from a flaring hand jam undercling that one can easily slip out of with no warning. I squeezed and focused all my energy into that hand jam. If I blew it I was well aware that my belayer would have a hard time keeping me off the deck.”

More info on other hard trad leads here.

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