Here is an interview with Adam Ondra about how he trains and how he got started climbing at 6 years old.
“I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20move lap and try to climb 3 times. 60 moves are usually more than enough. Good trick how to become stronger is to use ONLY micro footholds for your feet. You work on your power and precise footwork at the same time. I do not train more than 3 days in a row”
Here he is completing the final route at the 2009 World Cup in Belgium. Watching this, I couldn’t help thinking, “Eat some more. You’re pretty skinny.” (Oh wait, I need to eat less.)