Climb Strong has a new article on developing super power which explains why even a short boulder problem is too long to develop maximum power. Then it gives some ideas on how to incorporate a superpower routine into your training.
“The most powerful athletes in the world compete in activities lasting fewer than ten seconds….bouldering helps us develop more power than route climbing does. But ultimate levels of power are developed in sets of activity much shorter than the time needed to complete the average problem. We diminish the body’s ability to develop power by climbing too long, even on short boulder problems or campus board sets.”