Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Pacing For Redpoints

Dave MacLeod talks about the art of pacing when attempting to redpoint a route.

“The basics of pacing are that it’s a good idea to climb fast; as fast as possible without sacrificing accuracy. But even this isn’t so simple as occasionally on steep burly climbs with big positive holds, it can be better to err more on the side of speed even if accuracy is sacrificed a little bit.”

“Here is a video of yesterday’s efforts of mine on a long project (estimated grade V14). It’s about V12 to just before my failure point and the next few moves are the crux, so I need to have plenty left in the tank to make any more progress.”


Anonymous said...

I read this before going to the gym today. When I got to my 'nemesis' route, I decided to not pause and climb it quickly. It made such a difference, holy crappola. Thanks for the post!

richard said...

You're welcome. Glad you made your nemesis. Sometimes timing is everything.