Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Middle Way Of Rock Movement

Dave MacLeod recommends a “middle way” between a modern style of leaping and yelling and an older, more graceful style.

“The popularity of bouldering and the influence of famous climbers has tended to make climbers move faster and more aggressively, with less foot moves per hand move. What does this mean? It adds efficiency because you get through the moves quicker and more momentum is used and more aggression is good for realising the maximum force you can produce. But it loses efficiency by getting less weight on your feet throughout the whole move or sequence and adding a lot of swings into disadvantageous positions that must be countered with muscle power.”

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