Read about Ali Rainey climbing a 5.14 at Ten Sleep, WY. I like these parts:
“I’d already done three sets of 10 pull-ups at home; I’ve been playing around with this number trying to figure out the optimal amount of pull-ups to get my body warmed up without taking anything away from my power….
Despite my issues and reservations with switching belayers midstream—and especially about getting belayed by someone I’ve never climbed with before… I accepted the offer, tied in, and instantly fell off of the bottom moves that I have pretty dialed—my fingers were screaming in pain, and I knew I didn’t have much left to give…or so I thought. I sat down, popped my shoes off, and talked about how I’d have to come back and send on Monday. And then I put my shoes back on to try again.”
Read the whole thing.