Saturday, November 13, 2010

Grand Teton

The Smiley’s posted their climbs of the “Direct Exum Ridge” and the “North Face” of Grand Teton. Story here.

A quote from their story of climbing the “North Face:”

“It should be an automatic disqualification of classic status when one is required to climb up a 60 foot chimney where every inch is plastered with bat and bird crap! Thats right, its called the "guano chimney". Thankfully it was fairly dry when we were there, keeping the smell and slime factor relatively low.

The start of the route requires you to be in the blast zone. Rocks wiz down around you from over a thousand feet above. Helmet or not, if one of those catch you, it would be a closed-casket funeral for sure. There is also a slab pitch up higher. You clip the rope to a 40 year old angled piton, then climb diagonal and up for 40 feet across a slime covered slab that is wet from the perpetually melting snow patch above. So if you do slip near the top you are going for a tumbling, cheese-grating 80 footer.”

Grand Teton, North Face & Direct Exum Ridge from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

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