This is an article from Climbing Magazine which details the training program Andy Raether used to climb Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14c FA).
“Whether at 5.11c or 5.13c, training high-intensity PE one day a week, and then regular PE three days a week, will yield incredible results. Rest at least one day between each session, but don’t limit your training to the gym — use the crags, as well.”
He uses a Treadwall and is a big fan of E-Stim for muscle stimulation.
I Googled “Treadwall” and came up with this. I Googled “E-stim” and…well I’m not going to show you what I found. (There’s a whole world out there I don’t know nuttin’ about.) You do it yourself. You’ll either thank me later or be put off your feed.