Saturday, January 30, 2010

9 Out of 10 Climbers

I just bought this book written by Dave MacLeod whose website is here. Lots of advice on training for technique, developing finger strength and endurance as well as putting some of the initial fun you had as a beginning climber into your training.

One section of his book is devoted to falling. He states “it’s the primary weakness in over 50% of the climbers I  meet for coaching sessions.”

He suggests a fall from every lead climb we do in the gym. He says, “if you do 20 routes per session (that’s a lot!), 3 timers per week, and practice falls from each one, that’s a few thousand falls per year.” There are many ways he suggests to work into this and incorporate it into indoor leading. So Lisa and I have been doing this a little more. We’ll see if it helps.

1 comment:

Lisa said...

This is my favorite part and a remeinder about just going too far.

"most serious trad routes anywhere. In the film there’s a fair bit of me getting really quite scared, belayers reduced to tears and even the film crew saying on camera that they wouldn’t film something like it again."