This article reports on a study using chalk and:
"It’s hard to believe, but the University of Birmingham, UK, did a pretty thorough study (Use of Chalk in Rock Climbing: Sine Qua Non or Myth) of the factors involved in 2001 and came to the conclusion that chalk lowered the coefficient of friction by about 18%"
Be sure to read some of the comments on that page.
2 comments:
I tend to agree. I didn't use much chalk at all in Colorado or The Black Hills with the granite. I think you have to start with clean holds though. In the gym the friction is already reduced by the chalk on the holds before you get there, so you have to chalk in self defence. Like smoking in self defence in a bar, Oh wait I guess you can't smoke in bars any more, never mind.
Ok, I did my own experiment today. I used minimal chalk only when my hands were sweaty. I think it helped.
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