Saturday, March 20, 2010

Red River Gorge Trip Summary

Red River Gorge by Levi (Spring Break 2010)

  • Roadside Crag
    • Jump For Joy 5.9+ (Onsight) Slab
    • Fadda 5.10a (Onsight) Slab
    • Up Yonder 5.11b (Onsight) (do extension, way up yonder 12b)
    • Stay the Hand 5.12a (One fall) cool bouldery start, mono, 2 finger pockets
  • Military Wall
    • In the Light 5.10c (Onsight) pumpy warm up
    • Possum Lips 5.10d (Red point) hard slab, delicate very cool
    • Stay left 5.10a (Red Point) ( Stay left!)
    • Reliquary 5.12b (One Fall) crux is at large hueco, big move to slopy ledge.
    • Gung Ho 5.12b (One Fall) sequency pockets hard v4 boulder problem at top flaky edge. Very fun
    • Tissue Tiger 5.12b (One fall) Fun, Hard boulder problem in between 4th and 5th bolt. Follow tic marks. Mess of huecos
  • Muir Valley
    • Tectonic Wall
      • Plate Tectonics 5.9+ (fell 2 inch from ground everyone laughed at me) very cool route
      • 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c (Onsight) cool holds
      • Stadium
    • ED 5.7 (Trad Onsight) Wet but good enough footing
      • Sanctuary
        • Blue Collar 5.12b ( got worked) super small edges peter got redpoint on second go.
        • First Fall 5.9 (Trad Onsight) Very cool dihedral crack to fist hand crack and pull bulge to the end. 5 pieces 55 feet
  • Mother Load
    • Injured Reserve 5.11a (One fall, being lazy) defined crux big move to slopy pinch
    • Trust in Jesus 5.11b (On Site) Crimpy longer version of plate tectonics
    • Heart Shaped box 5.12c (One Fall, close onsight) 2 goes Favorite route of the trip. Cool pockets. Very crimpy ending 4th pad crimps and clip chains from full pad crimp and shitty feet (aka take victory whip)
    • Golden Touch 5.13b ( 2 bolts up) couldn’t get past credit card width crimp. Dyno past and move to 3 finger pocket
    • Tuna Town 5.12d ( 5 takes) 45 degree over hang big shoulder moves. Did all the moves just very pumpy. 10 clips then run out to chains. I slapped the chains and took the traditional 50 foot whipper, very fun.
    • Whip Stocking 5.11a (Onsight) 85 feet 8 bolts, no hands rest near chains.
    • Maizy Mae 5.13a (2 moves from top) One bolt 30 feet (stick clipped don’t worry) possible V7. Peter got Onsight.
  • Emerald City
    • No place like home 5.11c (one fall) clipping draws is horrendous, it evens suggests getting your partner to do it in the guidebook. Crux move is crimpy delicate arĂȘte. First bolt 30 feet off ground. Good exposure.
    • White Out 5.8+ (Onsight Trad) Beautiful golden dihedral. Moves to face at the top and to a finger crack. Hard to find anchors at first glance. Good exposure. 2 pitches. First pitch free solo.

Tuna Town Whipper below:

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