Thursday, June 9, 2011


Below is the routine of one day of training from John Bachar’s training journal. There’s a lot more at this link on how he trained.

1) Knob job 5.10a solo 150 ft.

2) Crack a-go-go 5.11a solo 150ft

3) Orangutan Arch 5.11a lead 150 ft

4) Bouldering- Bx2, Ax12 150 ft

WORKOUT one arm: jump 1x1 ¾: 1x1, 2 ½ lb x1x2

Two arm: 18” reg: 75lb x4, 85lb x2x3 i = l/v=810/10=81lb

24” wide: 60lb x3x2 i=l/v=360/6=60lb

36” ultra: 4x2

Ladder: 15lb x1x2 Hang: small: 75lb x 10sec x 6 =60sec

Fingertip pull ups: small: ½ x2 Pulley Butterfly: 70lb x 8

Lever: 70lb x10

Bench: 160lb x7x2 i=l/v 2240/14=160

Military: 50lb x 20 Erect row: 50lb x 18

Erect row: 50lb x 18 Dumbell fly: up: 10lb x 10 bent: 10lb x10

Goliath: 6:15/4x1 (252L) , 6:15/5x1 (352L) , 3x1 total time: 16:15

Heavy bag: 3-5min power attacks-full body and boxing

Stretching: 2min

On days he soloed, he would solo a lot like this day:

“Then, like on March 23, 1991 he would go big, soloing 34 routes in Joshua Tree in a day. That journal page is titled ‘Josh solo day’ and he soloed ten pitches of 5.10, ten of 5.10+, twelve of 5.11, one of 5.11+ and one 5.12.

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