Friday, October 29, 2010

Core Strength


Our old bud Will Gadd is riled up about the folly of getting core strength thru using exercise balls:

“Rolling around on a ball is only extremely useful for sports that require rolling around on a ball. Are you working out to get stronger in a useful way or working out to get better at rolling around on a ball?…

Now on to "core strength" as it relates to climbing and balls. I often get into discussions with people who think their ‘core’ is weak for climbing. They usually can't get or keep their feet on an overhanging wall. Most ‘trainers’ will prescribe rolling around on a ball like a spastic...

….So, if you're a climber that has a hard time holding your feet on the wall practice by hanging onto two good holds in a roof and swinging your feet up and ‘catching’ holds with them, repeat with holds to the side, etc. The good news is that this strength does come relatively quickly compared to pullups or something.”

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