Wednesday, April 20, 2011

More Favorite Climbs In The Black Hills

I posted some of my favorite Back Hills climb and asked Scott what are some of his favorites. Here’s what I got from him – remember he grew up out there and has done lots of hard classic routes. He also sent a photo of his new bouldering cave.


Looks like you covered most of the ultra classic 'easier' ones that I've done!

  • I think Tent Peg is a pretty good 'easy' route with a fun step around the corner thing - feels exposed but totally safe.
  • Another good 'easy' one is Breaking Wave in Chessmen (awkward diagonal crack crawl meets runoutish shady gear traverse with breaking crystals but I think it's 5.7...). Long hike for the area.
  • Horsetheif spire is also very cool - a really easy wandering scramble to the summit that I did with my wife, but at least one really cool sport route up towards the summit area (5.10+ or .11-? I top roped it)

[Ed.   Can’t find either of those on Mountain Project. But here’s a photo of these peaks. Here are links to a map first drawn in the ‘60s which show every named pinnacle/peak/blob of rock in these three areas.]

Needle's Eye Area
Outlets and Middle Earth Area (Sylvan Lake)
Cathedral Spires
Ten Pins Area

[Ed. Scott continues]

Ones that I want to do:

In Spearfish canyon:

  • I remember a good beginner hand crack climb (well bolted) somewhere... 5.8 I think - but not like the 5.8 crack I climbed on the Tower!
  • Pakistani route is very cool with the step out over the roof move!
  • I haven't climbed in Spearfish in a long time, besides ice. I've done many 5.10 and under routes there, but can't remember most”

[Ed.  Scott also wants to do these climbs on Devils Tower. Maybe Pete, Scott and Chase will do these on the weekend.]





I've attached a pic Chateau d'Ifof my newly completed bouldering cave - which I'm still working on! The Chateau d'If a la Count of Monte Cristo.”

1 comment:

Pastor said...

I meant Tent Peg, not End Pin!