Sunday, April 17, 2011

Analyzing Risks

A recent mom writes that her approach to climbing hasn’t really changed since she had her baby.  She says:

I feel like my attitude can be for the most part be boiled down to one statement, and applied in different ways depending on particular situation.


She then provides examples of how she assesses the risks involved in various types of climbing. All very commonsensical it seems to me. Such as:

1.  Topropes - If I or someone else that I trust has set up the anchor, I will gladly flail away on a toprope of just about any grade.

2.  Sport Routes -  If the route is bolted well and the fall zones are safe, I’ll go for it.

3.  Trad – I am a self-proclaimed trad pansy. I am willing to lead a full number grade higher (often times even more) on bolted routes than I am on gear routes. In new areas, I tend stick to easier grades where I can place the gear I need in a (relatively) relaxed body position.

4.  Bouldering – It all boils down to the landing – if its well-protected with pads or spotters that I trust, I’ll go for it. If not, I don’t – simple as that.

5.  Free-soloing - No matter how comfortable I feel at the grade, or how solid the rock is, there are always factors out of my control – holds can break, swarms of bees can attack (it’s happened to me on a rope, I’m assuming it could happen without one too…)”

The whole article is here.

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