Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Resting A Rope Between Falls

A report from Black Diamond on the differences in impact forces if you let a rope “rest” between big falls. There is an advantage to this – especially if it is 2 hours or more.


Loosening your knot, or letting the rope rest prior to a fall reduces the impact load on the top piece of gear by a small amount. However, using a different rope for each burn or switching ends of the rope would provide a greater benefit. And of course the best way to keep the forces on the top piece of gear to a minimum is to not fall in the first place.”

Best idea seems to be to switch ends.

Cedar Wright off of Calamari (5.12b), City of Rocks, ID

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