This new post on Will Gadd’s blog is from the climber who got hurt. He disagrees with some of Will’s assessments of what they – the two climbers – did wrong. I especially liked this advice:
“However, we did make one,major mistake: we did not a have a candid discussion before the climb about how we would react to potential risks, namely encountering
unstable snowpack once high on the route. I believe our extensive experience climbing together led us to think we would automatically be on the same page. That assumption, however, kept us from engaging in a challenging conversation that could have, although did not guarantee to have, prevented the slide. If I had one recommendation to others
it would be this: take the time to talk about risk before and during each climb, even if you think you are on the same page, or you think its unwarranted. Thinking proactively about what’s around the corner can save your life.”
Talking to your climbing partners about what each of you sees as the risks and why you see those as risks,seems like a good idea.