Friday, October 7, 2011

Superpin Bolt Removal

Lots of discussion over the years whether Superpin in the Black Hills e is a 5.10R or 5.10X. This Enjoying the Barber Rt. on Superpin at Pinfest 2011.  Just a couple weeks before Barber chopped all the bolts, which were added after his FA.   <br /> <br />Sack up if you want'er now 'cause she's XXX! <br /> <br />Photo:  Dennis Laughlinsummer, after 35 years, the sole bolt that is about 2/3 of the way up the route, has been removed. Now it is certainly 5.10 X.

Here’s the forum on Mountain Project about it and here’s some more discussion at Supertopo. Here’s how Mountain Project describes the protection on the route:

Currently none. After removal of the retro-bolts in summer '11, there is now no protection above the crux bulge.”


The bolt was placed there after a piton, which the first ascensionists used (as far as I can tell), broke off. It will definitely cut down on the number of climbers willing to lead this route. Personally, I think that is good; climbing is too dangerous to allow people to do it. It should be banned.


Lisa said...

Keeps out the rif raff . I hate being rif raff.

richard said...

I think we will make a new rock route and name it after you - "Riff Raff."