Rope Testing

Here’s a report from Black Diamond on what happens to ropes with frayed ends.

• Ropes, like all climbing gear, don’t last forever—the ends of your rope take a beating—be wary of super frayed, worn, puffed out, beat up tattered cords. Yes, ropes aren’t cheap, but they’re also your lifeline—literally—so take care of them.
• When the ends of your cord get all beat and tattered from dogging up routes, cut the ends off, or a buy a new rope.
  • I always cut equal lengths off BOTH ends so the middle mark is always in the middle.
  • Be sure to mark the new length on BOTH ends so you and your partners know what you’re dealing with.
  • And while you’re at it—tie a knot in one end—too often you hear of someone being lowered off the end of their rope—definitely not cool.