More Favorite Climbs In The Black Hills

I posted some of my favorite Back Hills climb and asked Scott what are some of his favorites. Here’s what I got from him – remember he grew up out there and has done lots of hard classic routes. He also sent a photo of his new bouldering cave.

 

“Looks like you covered most of the ultra classic 'easier' ones that I've done!

• I think Tent Peg is a pretty good 'easy' route with a fun step around the corner thing - feels exposed but totally safe.
• Another good 'easy' one is Breaking Wave in Chessmen (awkward diagonal crack crawl meets runoutish shady gear traverse with breaking crystals but I think it's 5.7...). Long hike for the area.
• Horsetheif spire is also very cool - a really easy wandering scramble to the summit that I did with my wife, but at least one really cool sport route up towards the summit area (5.10+ or .11-? I top roped it)

[Ed.   Can’t find either of those on Mountain Project. But here’s a photo of these peaks. Here are links to a map first drawn in the ‘60s which show every named pinnacle/peak/blob of rock in these three areas.]

Needle's Eye Area
Outlets and Middle Earth Area (Sylvan Lake)
Cathedral Spires
Ten Pins Area

[Ed. Scott continues]

Ones that I want to do:

• Three Rings for Elven Kings 5.9 in Middle Earth;
• Spire One 5.7;
• International Chimney on Spire Three 5.8?;
• Something on Gnomon;
• Something on Little Devil's Tower;
• Some caving in Bartizan; Sultan's tower.
• There are a number of other 'backcountry' areas that I'd love to explore in more detail. I've never been on top of Baldy, either.

In Spearfish canyon:

• I remember a good beginner hand crack climb (well bolted) somewhere... 5.8 I think - but not like the 5.8 crack I climbed on the Tower!
• Pakistani route is very cool with the step out over the roof move!
• I haven't climbed in Spearfish in a long time, besides ice. I've done many 5.10 and under routes there, but can't remember most”
  

[Ed.  Scott also wants to do these climbs on Devils Tower. Maybe Pete, Scott and Chase will do these on the weekend.]

• “Obviously El Matador
• and Soler on the Tower would be nice.

 

 

 

 

I've attached a pic of my newly completed bouldering cave - which I'm still working on! The Chateau d'If a la Count of Monte Cristo.”