Arno Igner wrote the book "The Warrior's Way" and here's what he says about coaching someone while s/he is climbing.
"The most common phrase I hear when I go to climbing gyms or climbing areas is "you've got it." This phrase is that climbers on the ground say to encourage the climber to stay committed. There is a problem with this phrase. ..
If the belayer would remind the climber of these then perhaps the climber would be better able to rally his or her attention and keep it focused on the task. So, what are some of these things? If the climber is stopped and intending to rest then you can coach him/her to relax, breathe, and shake out. If the climber is moving and intending to climb then you can coach him/her to breathe, move, and stay as relaxed as possible. You can also ask the climber a question that will help him/her stay focused. I've found that saying "what's next?" helps climbers redirect attention on what they are doing and what they need to do next to stay committed.
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Exercise
Go to a climbing gym or crag and notice how many climbers say "You've got it." Now, you get on a climb and instruct your belayer to remind you to:
At rests - breathe, shake, relax
When climbing between rests - breathe, move, relax, "what's next?"
See if coaching this way helps you stay on task."
1 comment:
I must say, My favorite coaching that I heard this week was. "Lisa, nothing bad is going to happen" I know that, but it helps to be reminded. I also heard, "you have 2 nice jugs up there" Good beta! or...It's nice to hear a compliment now and again (hehe)
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