Self-Coaching

The Warrior's Way says this about self-coaching (Much More at the Link):

" Sometimes, however, you may not like all the stimulation from below and rather coach yourself. 
 
Exercise
Instruct your belayer to be very attentive while you are climbing but to say nothing, unless it is a safety issue. Then, get on a climb at your limit and talk to yourself.
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At rests:
"Ok (Your Name), breathe, shake out, calm down. Where's the next pro/stance? Is the fall ok? What's possible in this next section?"
When climbing:
"Keep breathing; keep moving; loosen your grip; calm down, what's next?; make the move; commit; precise feet, etc"

Nice Jugs

There has been some discussion with Greg at VE about a lack of juggy holds to use on the overhanging routes. Apparently there is a shortage (weird seeing as how there is a hold factory in the back) I was shopping a bit click here for nice jugs. Maybe we could ask Santa.

Fly Mel, Fly

After doing my homework on the blog, I combined coaching techniques and dyno instructions in climbing with the gifted and graceful Mel-lo. At the top of an impossible climb, completely sapped of energy from trying. I told her to take a break, look ahead and listen to me. I told her to breath, push hard with her feet and not let go too soon with her catching hand. It worked, Mel flew to the top of the route like she had wings, it was amazing! Read this stuff, it works.

Fly, Baby Fly

"Everyone feels too short when the holds are far away, right? So, what's the clue? What are you to think, that makes it possible to fly and land those crucial centimeters higher up?"

Some helpful techniques for reaching way up  high.

Climbing This Week

Lisa and Mel will be at VE on Sunday. Usually they get there about 1PM. Lisa will be at VE on Monday about 1 also. My knee is sore from when I hurt it running last week so I will skip the next few days. Have fun.

Cueva de los Cristales Gigantes de Naica

When we go to Mexico, to climb that Corral. We could go see this cave. These rocks are big and pretty, but it is really hot in there. I hear it's 115 degrees.

This Is Where Raoul Used to Climb in the UK

I think this is where Raoul told me he climbed when he lived in England. I love the huge cam this guy puts in to lead it. Anyone would feel very safe with a cam that big.

The Promise from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo.

Bozeman Ice Festival

The Bozeman Ice Festival's mission is to promote the sport of ice climbing to people of all ages and abilities, to educate ice climbers about climbing skills and safe climbing techniques, and introduce climbers to cutting edge ice climbing clothing and equipment.

I would go, but I have plans in Duluth. Any of y'all gonna go? Take photos. It looks cool.

Friday Report

I think we were the only ones that knew the gym opened at 11:00, but then it got crowded. Richard, Raoul, Nora, Levi, Melissa and her offspring Isabella showed no sign of being overstuffed by Thanksgiving. Lots of leading was done. Levi, Raoul and Richard played on the arch and Nora went for that elusive 7th clip on the yellow 5.9 out of the pit. Mel and Izy burned up the auto belays. Isabella climbed all the way to the giant VE! Way to go!Levi and I finished of with some bouldering. I still feel a little weird up there, like it's no place to take your mama. I will probably get over it.

Friday at VE

A bunch of people are going to be at VE on Friday the day after T'giving. I think VE opens at 11. C U there.

Rattlesnake Bluff

Go to my regular blog. I've posted my report there as I had a ton of photos to put up. http://seaboopugs.blogspot.com See everyone Friday at VE!

Forearms Look Like This After A Climb?

This article on lactic acid and pumped forearms, has some methods for preventing/recovering from this Popeye syndrome.

 

 

Coaching

Arno Igner wrote the book "The Warrior's Way" and here's what he says about coaching someone while s/he is climbing.

"The most common phrase I hear when I go to climbing gyms or climbing areas is "you've got it." This phrase is that climbers on the ground say to encourage the climber to stay committed. There is a problem with this phrase. ..

If the belayer would remind the climber of these then perhaps the climber would be better able to rally his or her attention and keep it focused on the task. So, what are some of these things? If the climber is stopped and intending to rest then you can coach him/her to relax, breathe, and shake out. If the climber is moving and intending to climb then you can coach him/her to breathe, move, and stay as relaxed as possible. You can also ask the climber a question that will help him/her stay focused. I've found that saying "what's next?" helps climbers redirect attention on what they are doing and what they need to do next to stay committed.
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Exercise
Go to a climbing gym or crag and notice how many climbers say "You've got it." Now, you get on a climb and instruct your belayer to remind you to:
At rests - breathe, shake, relax
When climbing between rests - breathe, move, relax, "what's next?"
See if coaching this way helps you stay on task."

Which Shoe Is Stickiest?

This test says the Evolv TRAX XT-5 rubber is the stickiest.

I'll Get Off This Gritstone Trad Lead Kick Soon

But here's another video with amazingly poor gear placement way low on the climb. At about 25 seconds into the video, watch for the 4 small stoppers and one small cam he places right next to each other. These climbers are crazy.