Excellent Work by Julianne on the Arches at VE on Friday

Thanks to sparkling camera work by Lisa, expert belaying by me and, of course, most excellent hand and foot work by Julianne, here's a video of her climbing both sides of the Golden Arches today.

Talked to Pat at VE About Climbing in the Black Hills

I talked to Pat at VE the other day about climbing areas and recommendations he had for our group in the Black Hills. I did buy the newest guide book called "The Needles" that has a lot of climbs listed in Custer State Park which includes the Needles, the Sylvan Lake area, the Cathedral Spires and a new area called Moonlight Ridge. Nothing in this book about the Rushmore area which is just outside Custer State Park. There are many more routes described online than in this book but this book has better maps and puuurty pictures.

OK, here's what Pat said.

1. Moonlight Ridge area - about half sport and half trad. Close to Needles parking lot. He and his wife love to climb here. No specific route recommendations.

2. Sylvan Lake area - He likes the "Riddle" route. It's fun on its own and can be used as a top rope for two other harder climbs.

3. Rushmore area - almost all sport climbs. He recommends "Chopping Block" which he called a "juggy, gym roof climb."
Also he likes "Bolts for Bob" and "Waves."

From what I've seen of everyone's climbing, none of these is past your abilities for leading. It'll take a few climbs out there to get the feel of the rock, but these are well within what you can lead.

Hostage Crisis Averted, Overtraining Myth Debunked

Richard was climbing at peak performance today. Although he had his eye on some new leads in the pit, they were never available to him. So he climbed back and forth across the golden arches with encouragement from his most excellent belayer. He was indeed climbing strong and mentioned the success of the overtraining method employed by the WR team. It must be noted however that he has been cross training on skiis for 6 days.
Oh and I got my shoe back, it’s unharmed and still turns my foot green.
J.’s climb? A video is worth a thousand words, it was a thing of beauty, grace and very little grunting. I'm sure the video will be posted shortly.

I'll be there on Friday

Hope to see some of you today at VE! My last time of day climbing... =(
I may be bringing two college girls to try climbing as well.

Lisa ignores starving people to climb at VE on Thursday

On Thursday, Aaron and I were climbing away not expecting any other WRers. He showed up even though he's still recovering from his overclimbing of Wednesday when he and Julianne did their Golden Arches climbs. (Lisa said they sounded like grunting bats. I'm sure, if I were there, they would have sounded to me like well-conditioned athletes.) Then Lisa shows up when she's supposed to be feeding poor people or raising money for them or doing something that's definitely not as important as climbing with Aaron and me. And then the party started.


So we did a few leads and a few top ropes and I was whipped. Whipped by that 11 that Julianne and Aaron led a few days ago. Whipped by that Golden Arches climb that they did twice yesterday. So, I haven't been climbing for 6 days and I'm not any stronger. I think the overtraining strategy is way better than this strategy. And the worst part of today was, Lisa had to leave early so she could help the hungry people instead of us.

iF U r NoT LiSa DoN't ReAd tHis

We have a potential hostage situation on our hands at WR. I received this photo addressed to Lisa a short while ago. I think it's for her eyes only, so don't look at it if you're not Lisa. (If you are Lisa, click on the photo to enlarge. If you're not her, go do something else. This is not a joke! So don't laugh.)

Pumpfest 08'

Since Richard, Lisa and Mel all decided to break tradition by not showing up for Wednesdays overtraining session; it was up to Aaron and Julianne to represent Wednesdays Rock at V.E. We decided to answer a question that was never asked: should a person go over the arch head first, or feet first. After the arch, Julianne flashed the green lead route in honor of Lisa, and Aaron FINALLY made the last clip on the red lead out of the pit.
In other news: Richard is climbing today, Yay!!!!

I'm back. Here's some real ice climbing

I took a photo today at Provo Canyon (about 30 minutes south of Salt Lake City airport) of ice climbers doing this climb. You probably need to enlarge the photo to see the two climbers I've circled.

















There are lots of ice waterfalls in this canyon. All close to the highway. Here's another one just a little bit east of the first one.

So Richard can dive back in..

Wed afternoon: J. & Aaron
Wed night: Liz, Mel, Carl
Thurs: Aaron, I think.
Friday Afternoon 12:30: Liz, J. and maybe Mel (because noon is too embarassing)
The Weekend Aaron, Carl, Liz are out of Town
Monday 1:18: Just Liz? say it ain't so! Richard!

Tuesday Climbing!

"I'm not climbing it, you climb it. Make Julianne climb it, she'll climb anything."
Aaron and J. practiced hanging upside down underneath the arch, They were good at it too! Just like little grunting bats. Sorry I couldn't go get my camera. The action was far to exciting to tear myself away. Carl showed up too, as they threatened to stop giving him vacation time if he didn't start to use them. It was music to Liz's ears. It was a very good day. Liz and Aaron stayed well away from the pit of shame, I mean the center ring. Looks like Friday might be a big day.

Tuesday Climbing?

Hey folks: Anyone interested in climbing today? I was in Kansas over the weekend and hanging out with my 12-yr old nephew on Monday so couldn't climb. I'm heading over this afternoon, if anyone is interested in joining me. I think I'll get there maybe at 1.30?

The Circus Came to Town!

You guys should have been there, it was great! V.E. unknowingly hosted two amazing circus acts on Monday. The first act was an awesome high-wire trapeze show. The performer climbed a lead route and then, mid-wall, demonstrated an awe-inspiring swan dive, only to be caught feet from the ground by a truly talented belayist. He repeated this feat numerous times for eager onlookers.
The main show was pure genius! The aforementioned belayer took center ring when she demonstrated high altitude yoga poses for the crowd. The climax of the show occurred when she performed "dog facing down" under the roof; and held that pose for 3 minutes! Grown men blushed and parents shielded the eyes of thier young. Just as circus go-ers were calming down, she finished her demonstration with a beautiful assent to the top of the route!
When asked if the show will return, V.E officials stated "I hope not."

Blog Silence

Aaron and Liz did climb on Monday and have taken a vow of silence on the subject. Don't ask and we won't have to hurt you.

Saturday with Aaron and Grant

It was fun to see Grant so excited about climbing with his Dad. The 3 of us climbed together a few times. Then I went bouldering and they kept on overtraining. Some photos below:

Stillwater Ice Recon

It was a pretty day and atrip down memory lane to the place that we used to bike to and wade to the islands to party as kids. This ice is tall, it would be climbed in 2 pitches. Ice screws are needed for protection, so it is a lead route. I didn't think the amount of ice was worth a climbing trip. There was a guy and his wife there climbing it. You can see him near the top. He didn't bother climbing the bottom, he just hiked up to the top. Again pretty day for a hike....