Talked to Pat at VE About Climbing in the Black Hills

I talked to Pat at VE the other day about climbing areas and recommendations he had for our group in the Black Hills. I did buy the newest guide book called "The Needles" that has a lot of climbs listed in Custer State Park which includes the Needles, the Sylvan Lake area, the Cathedral Spires and a new area called Moonlight Ridge. Nothing in this book about the Rushmore area which is just outside Custer State Park. There are many more routes described online than in this book but this book has better maps and puuurty pictures.

OK, here's what Pat said.

1. Moonlight Ridge area - about half sport and half trad. Close to Needles parking lot. He and his wife love to climb here. No specific route recommendations.

2. Sylvan Lake area - He likes the "Riddle" route. It's fun on its own and can be used as a top rope for two other harder climbs.

3. Rushmore area - almost all sport climbs. He recommends "Chopping Block" which he called a "juggy, gym roof climb."
Also he likes "Bolts for Bob" and "Waves."

From what I've seen of everyone's climbing, none of these is past your abilities for leading. It'll take a few climbs out there to get the feel of the rock, but these are well within what you can lead.