Sport Climbing vs Bouldering

Sport lead climbing is being considered for the 2020 Olympics. Not bouldering.

"...the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) divulged that its bid for Olympic inclusion would only focus on lead climbing.

I was a little surprised at that since bouldering seems so much more TV friendly. But, lead climbing seems more risky because of the heights. Here's what a professional climber said about training for sport climbing vs bouldering:

     "He explained to me how much easier it is to train for bouldering comps because you only need to focus on increasing power—that’s all that really matters when you just have to jump around between slopers and pinches for 10 feet. Also, training power requires more rest, more down time, for muscular supercompensation.

Training for sport is more time consuming, because you need to train both power and power-endurance. The training schedule is more than twice as demanding, Brenna said."