If you have never been to the Red River Gorge, you are missing out. After my 6 day stay at Miguel's pizza in the Red, I have to say that I have never seen so many amazingly beautiful routes in my life. First of all, if you go to the Red you need to camp at Miguel's. It is 2 dollars a night and its the coolest social atmosphere ever. Everyone gets out their Coleman stoves at mealtimes and cooks side by side. I was very surprised that we were not the only ones who ate like kings. Climbers seem to have a need for quality food. Each day we hit up at least one or more walls.
1st day :
Road side Crag- Very sketchy the 9's that we hopped on were very wet.
-Crazy fingers 5.10c- very fun finger pockets. Over hung, dry in the rain.
-Trouble Clef 5.9- - I took a 25 foot fall on this one when my foot slipped. Very clean
-Alters Scale 5.9+ - Another sketchy, wet route
2nd day:
Johnny's wall- It was still kinda wet but we went climbing on these fun routes.
-Bethel 5.10a -Really cool shallow flakes to crimp. Same with spinner.
-Spinner 5.10b
-Mancala 5.10a -Fun route over all, crux was right before on a wet over hanging bulge.
Indie wall- We checked this place out and just did some top out bouldering on some 12d's. Floor was really sandy, the rock was still wet.
Sanctuary- Really overhung, around a 70 degree angle from the vertical, just looked and admired. Mostly 13 and 14. we had some friends doing some projects there on Jesus wept and another I forgot the name but it was a 13a.
3rd day:
Funk rock city! -This day was the best day yet. There was a muddy approach on an old road which came to a river that we had to wade across. Then onto a very steep trudge up the jungle and around this huge crag. We only met a couple groups there which was sweet. A couple tradders that had just finished a 10d!
Prime directive 5.11b 95 feet 8 bolts crux near the top.
Hardcore Jollies- 5.12a my first twelve let alone outdoors on lead. Really awesome big moves, fun fun fun.
Head stone-5.10a I hopped on these guys trad route up this awesome crack really fun!
4th day
This day we were hoping to make a relaxing day but I got excited when I saw Fuzzy Undercling.
Sunshine 5.9+
Moon Beam 5.9
Stay left 5.10a
Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b my highest flash on the trip.
Possum Lips 5.10d slabby route with really cool reachy moves with crimpy sidepulls.
5th day was a break day, we took a break and went to Lexington and freshened up in the family bathroom at the mall.
6th day
We got on some classic routes; I forgot the names & I don't have the guide book anymore.
5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10b, 5.14a. We were going to leave but then we got caught up trying to get the first 20 foot clip on a 5.14a called the unknown. The first move was cool and really strong. I couldn’t get the right spread with my legs so I stripped down and did it in my boxers. I'll post a picture when I get a copy. haha
Thanks for reading!
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