Wow, three separate routes on El Cap in 24 hours.
“The pair began at 8 p.m., climbing the Nose in 4:15. Then they started up Salathé, ascending in six hours, before finishing the day with Lurking Fear. The two were seen eating pizza on Curry Deck at 8 p.m. the next evening, meaning they climbed 85 pitches (2,400 meters) in 24 hours.”
Lots ,more photos and details here.
Here’s the finals of the latest competition in Holland. The routes are just fiendish.
The next meeting of the BHCC will be 7 pm Wednesday, July 14, at the Slate Creek Grill in Hill City. We will also check over all the ropes and slings in preparation for Pinfest on Saturday, July 17th.
On June 18th BHCC members Ron Yahne, Jason McNabb, Darryl Stisser, Andrew Busse and Bruce Junek met with Mount Rushmore intern superintendent and mid-west region chief ranger Hughy Dougher about changes to the climbing boundaries at Mount Rushmore. Superintendent Dougher was eager to work together with us to insure a policy that will address security issues at Mount Rushmore, and still allow climbers access to areas that have been important historically to climbing. It was determined that because of the established routes on the White House Wall, and the tradition of climbs along the northern end of Emancipation Rockformation, that the new out-of-bounds areas will start from the top of those formations (allowing climbing to continue all along this wall as long as climbers rappel back down and DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HIKE DOWN THE BACKSIDE OF ANY OF THE EMANCIPATION ROCKFORMATION). This will enlarge the out-of-bounds area to now include Indian Camp and Green Valley, which climbers refer to as the Vale of Tranquility. THIS AREA IS NOW ALL OUT-OF-BOUNDS TO CLIMBING. The BHCC has agreed to accept these new boundaries, which has resulted from changes in security requirements after the Green Peace demonstrations last year. BHCC also expressed our gratitude to the Rushmore administrators for their willingness to adjust the boundaries so that classic routes such as Garfield Goes to Washington and Political Prowess will STILL REMAIN OPEN to climbers. The BHCC has agreed to make sure there are rappel anchors on all of the existing routes, and all of the future climbs put up along this wall.
The Falling Rock workday was a big success—20 people did a major clean-up of the entire area hauling out truckloads of garbage. The Forest Service even cut down the scary tree at the cliffs edge. In addition, nine sets of anchors were replaced over a number of days by Mike Cronin and Ron Yahne, who used 7-inch glue-in bolts in the soft limestone to insure bomber anchors with a long life expectancy.
Other repairs-
Garfield Goes to Washington – new anchors at the first pitch and at the top. There is now a two-pitch rappel straight off the top of the climb. You no longer have to hunt for the tricky rappel off the overhang roof. You still need gear to build the anchor on top of the 2nd pitch.
Mothra – new anchors
Gossamer – new top bolt. Old anchor studs have been ground off.
Tiki—Dick Laptad (the first ascensionist) okay’d an additional bolt at the bottom so long as it was put in on lead. Ron Yahne stepped up to the plate and put in the bolt with Jason McNabb belaying. They also added new anchors on top.
Don’t forget Pin Fest is July 17th. We usually get a leisurely start around 9 am in the Ten Pins area of Custer State Park. Bring a lunch and come out for a truly great day of climbing on some of the most classic routes in North America!
Beans and Biners on Sept 11th.
Devils Tower trail work/climb//barbeque is Sept 25.
Climb Hard and Climb Safe.
Bruce B. Junek – Newsletter Editor
Here’s a photo Ron took on their trip to the Black Hills last week. (I didn’t think they allowed guns in the campground.)
Liz, Zack, Ron and Aaron went climbing in the Black Hills last week. Liz posts a great summary of their trip on her blog. Thanks for the report, Liz and congrats on all the climbing you did out there. (But where’s the report and photos from the Boyz?)
Here’s Liz on the 2nd belay station of “Garfield Goes to Washington.”
The rocks were wringing wet with the humidity today. (I think the dew point was 73 degrees.) Then it started to rain. So we left.
But we got in a few climbs and it was almost like Fathers’ Day with Rackie’s daughter Sylvia and Fabrice’s son Arthur climbing with us.
“Bite me” is what you’ll be saying to the mosquitoes when you try this new trick. I read about using scotch tape on an itchy mosquito bite to stop the itching. So I’ve been experimenting with it the last few days. (The mosquitoes will carry you away now if you’re in the woods – like today at Red Wing.)
Putting a little piece of tape over the bite does seem to stop the itching. Maybe it’s a placebo effect, but it’s cheap, easy and doesn’t seem to do any harm.
“The Biggest, the Queerest, the most HomoClimbtastic Trip Evar! “is planned for July 15-18 at New River Gorge. Sounds like fun. Bring your booty shorts like this guy in the photo.
Here’s rappelling and climbing circa the 1960s as done at National Outdoor Leadership School in Wyoming. Full 19 minute video here.
Notice the over-the-shoulder rappel technique and the around-the-waist belay. Narrated by Paul Petzoldt.
A low cost way to get in shape for climbing. All you need is some rope and rocks. (Oh yeah, and some healing herbs and an appreciative audience.)
This routine builds strong hands and a strong core. Don’t forget the part where you run around with big boulders strapped to your ankles.
Old Strechno is not another name for this aging yogini, it is a castle ruin in Slovakia. It is totally climbable.You could get a few friends together and go somewhere, but if you want a big-time sponsored expedition, this workshop might be just the ticket. Plus, it’s in the south of France. Who doesn’t want to go there?
“…3-day event held in the French Pyrenees providing participants with the essential tools necessary to embark on their own expedition or adventure. Activities over the weekend include white-water rafting, mountain trekking, equipment selection clinic, discussion and planning sessions, sponsorship proposal writing, photography and videography class..”
