It’s Best To Breathe

I don’t like to breathe while I’m climbing because it takes away from my tunnel-vision focus on the nearest 6-12 inches in front of me. But some people believe that holding your breath isn’t the best thing to do. Who knew?

“In observing others — in their offices, their homes, at cafes — the vast majority of people hold their breath especially when they first begin responding to email. On cell phones, especially when talking and walking, people tend to hyper-ventilate or over-breathe. Either of these breathing patterns disturbs oxygen and CO2 balance.”

Gear Testing Videos

Several videos of cams being tested in rocks are here.

“The videos below show different cam and nut placements and give commentary on different aspects of the placement. Watch the videos and learn how much force it takes to blow out each placement!”

Anchors Aweigh, My Boys (& Girls)

Listen to the music below as you review this info on setting anchors.

“Here’s wishing you a happy voyage home.” At least, if you set your anchors up properly.

 

 

Nature By Numbers

Kinda cool.

Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Crag

Because of the independent nature that is inherent in most climbers, today had an odd schedule. This schedule caused Aaron to ask me, " Hey. What's going on?" Don't worry Aaron just read to the end of the story, it ends happily enough.

Thursday was forcast to be the finest weather day of the week. We all anticipated it. We imagined basking in the sun, on the rocks like lizards, hungrily soaking up the spring rays. We were each plotting which routes would soon become a part of our individualized resumes. Mel and Fabrice planned to go to Taylors Falls, Peter and Richard would go to Willow. Aaron and I planned a trip to Red Wing. I know, weird, right?

In the morning heavy grey clouds hung like heavy grey clouds in the sky. Dang, it was cold. At 11:00 am I called Aaron and I told him "Dang it's cold" So we went to the gym.
Surprise Surprise, All the kids were there! (Jen stood in for Mel) What fun! Yes, the sun came out, but it was still cold.

So anyway, Tomorrow most of the kids are going to Taylor's, all together, like it should be. Hope you can make it, Ron. Would you like to join us?

Tip of the day: Always verify your climbing plans by phone, before you leave home

More On Red Rocks Rendezvous

“Imagine beautiful weather, abundant climbing partners, miles and miles of beautiful rock to climb, oodles of trails to run and mountain bike, fantastic food, and generous amounts of New Belgium beer.”

That’s what RockClimberGirl.com says about the 2010 Red Rock Rendezvous.

Re-slinging Cams

Here’s what Black Diamond says about replacing slings on cams:

 

•    With occasional use: slings should be replaced every 5-8 years
•    With frequent use: slings should be replaced 2-5 years.

Re-slinging Black Diamond Camalots and C3s
So what and how should you re-sling your BD cams? Of course you can do anything you like:
•    One-inch tubular webbing with a knot will work.
•    Sending them to someone that knows how to sew structural climbing gear, and have them bartack a single loop of SuperTape will work.
•    Having someone that knows what they’re doing bartack a double length of SuperTape or 10 mm Dynex will work.

Lots more photos and test data at the link.

A Rolling Stone Gathers no Choss

This video contains the key to new area development. If John brings the Heli back from his trip, we can use it to clean up his "Secret Place"!
ssshhhhh don't tell.

Massive Bolt Removal=New Jobs!

You've got to read it to believe it, click here for the article from Splitter Choss

Devil's Lake -it's right next door in Wisconsin

This route is called Peter's Project, it's a 5.7 and I fear it wouldn't be a project for the guy I know named Peter. I think I would like to climb that crack. The scenery at this park is beautiful, well worth the drive. Here is the Mountain Project Information.

Thursday is the day

We are climbing outside by golly, I will let you know where as soon as I know.

Rest Days

Dave MacLeod suggests that

“Climbers on short (1-2 week) sport climbing trips often tell themselves they’ll just have a light day as active rest so they can avoid having to discipline a boring full rest day while staying at a dream destination. Tough as it is in the short term, the full rest day often works out better down the line.”

So on your short 2 week climbing  vacations, better take a few days off. More info in his article at the above link.

St. Cloud Quarry Park

Click here for Mountain Project info. There is a swimming hole too, for when it get to hot to climb. Has anyone been there? Sounds fun. If you have bee there, please leave a comment.

Wildest Dream

A movie about climbing Everest as Mallory and Irvine did in 1924 when they disappeared on the mountain. Details about the movie here. Trailer below. More about the movie here.

Red Rock Rendezvous 2010

A summary of the “Climb Like A Girl” clinic at the Rendezvous from one of the instructors:

“We worked on developing confidence in foot placements, especially on smears, and on not using upper body power to just pull through moves. I directed the focus on pushing with the legs and feet, watching the feet connect with each hold, and finding good balance points, even trying to take the hands off of the rock with every step up.”

A video summary below.

Seeing all those people there, makes it look unappealing to me. But, hey, I’m spoiled.