Winds Make You Weary

According to this TV report on 3 climbers stuck overnight at Red Rocks, “wind makes other climbers weary when they scale these rocks.”

 

The First Outdoor Climbing Day of 2010

I just checked the weather for Wed Wing for the week, looks like Wednesday's partly cloudy, high of 53; or Thursday is 59, mostly cloudy. I am willing to sacrifice my job to go climb either day. Is anyone else willing to do the same?

Hurricave

This is a new limestone cave climbing area near Hurricane, Utah.

Body Tension

Dave MacLeod explains body tension here.

“Body tension is the product largely of technique, but also of strength through the body. Some important (and trainable) parts of it are:

Climbing rhythm. That is not getting too extended with both arms high before moving the feet.

Aggression in the lower body. Many climbers are far too passive with the lower body, and aren’t using the strength they already have.

Placement of the foot - The big toe must be in a position to apply the strength, and it’s often not possible because the toes are not engaged and the heel is dropped low.

Turning of the trunk - Helps bring the tensioned hip close to the wall during a stretch and be more ‘over’ the foothold.

Momentum use. Momentum is essential to apply body tension from awkward positions where it’s hard to apply foot force. For example throwing the hips into a plane in which the foot can apply force during execution of a move.

You could go to a gym and train body strength for a decade and it would make little difference to your body tension in climbing if the above factors are not working for you already. The flip side is that many climbers have enough strength already to get a lot more body tension just by working on the technical elements.”

“The Brotherhood”

This is a story on the Black Diamond website about a unique style of bouldering.

“I turned the corner and saw two guys about my age, decked out in football helmets and shoulder pads, hockey gloves, Carhartt pants and wrestling shoes…Max sprinted toward the sloping slab face of a massive boulder; his thin wrestling shoes digging up bits of gravel with every powerful stride. Max launched on to the slab in a surprisingly athletic bound; his feet and legs pumped against the rock as his hockey-gloved hands scratched to assist.

… At that moment I could have introduced them to “proper” bouldering as I knew it, with advanced techniques, chalk, pads, magazines, V-grades, controversy, competition. As a seasoned boulderer of 13 years, I could have shown them how the sport was really supposed to be practiced. But why? How were my methods of bouldering better than theirs? My style more pure? Or how were anyone’s for that matter? How could I have possibly approached Max and Duane and told them that despite all their passion and raw energy their version of bouldering was incorrect? “Is that really my purpose as a climber?” I thought. No, it definitely was not.”

One time, when we were in the Black Hills climbing and it was raining, we went looking for these boulders. Maybe an hour west of Custer. Never could find them.

The Ducks!

The Eider Ducks! At 1:40 in Richard's narwhal video! I didn't know what kind they were, but we saw those in Iceland!!!! They don't quack; they say "wah-ooo?" as they tip their heads back. They're really fun to watch! Listen here.

Rockfall On The Interstate

I 70 in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado has been closed since Monday because of rock fall which damaged the roadway (photo below.)

Sneak Up On A Narwhal

According to their website, this trip is for you if you’re … 
“… looking for a relaxed adventure. The arctic already is far off the beaten track and we are far from any usual tourist route. You do not have to have previous Arctic experience, but you do need to have an adventurous spirit.”

I think sneaking up on a narwhal – and a walrus - would be the best reason for going.

 

Mind Games

If you have ever taken a big whipper or suffered a climbing injury, you know it can be a long road back. Some days I wonder if I will ever get back. In exploring Steph Davis' Blog I found an article that speaks to this issue better than any I have seen, The part I like best is a comment by "Larkin".

"”Take that glow/excitement/appreciation for life that you gained from this experience and recycle it back into your adventure. As you slowly work your way back into climbing and leading don’t “learn to ignore the fear” but let it become your friend, so that when you feel it, you think “oh yeah! Thanks for the reminder. This is LIFE, and I love it!” rather than “oh shit, gonna die, gotta go down.”

To read Steph's full article, and I think you should, click here Mind Games

Patagonia Ice Cave

This is a partial video from this site about researching glaciers in Patagonia. Watching them descend into sink holes in the glacier and fly over some of the famous Patagonian peaks is amazing.

Skyaking

Why wouldn’t you want to jump out of a plane in a kayak?

Bouldering Finals

This competition happened a month ago, so I know I am late in posting these videos. As I watched these, I couldn’t help asking, “I wonder if they train to get that good.”

 

You are Not Your Job

Funny thing Ron, your comment came along just as I was reading this article. You Are Not Your Job. Click here to read it, It's a good one, from Black Diamond. Oh and they make good ice climbing tools too.
Ok Picture this.... 10 year old girl, holding a hammer with 2 hands, choaked way up on it, one eye closed. She misses the nail head just to the right of it, then to the left, crap! this is hard.... Flash forward.... Same gal, pushing 50 (pushing it hard) ice tool in hand. She eyes a lovely divot in the ice, extends her arm, and THUNK. Solid. Moves up on it. WOW. I am so satified. I can't even tell you how good that felt.

Come Back Winter

A few of us tested our new winter gear at the Brick Yards today. It was so much fun, we pleaded for winter to come back.

Belay Anchor Setup

These climbers on pullharder.org have a recommendation for belay anchor setup.

“It’s simple, fast, and super light.  It’s a knotted sliding X with a light mammut sling, two Camp Nano 23 biners, and a 39 gram trango superfly locker.”