Sunday, May 18, 2008

I'm about to do something amazing in my pants!


Yep! I got me some new pants and in 45 minutes I will take them to Taylor's Falls to see what they can do. Apparently I will be able to climb trees. explore the artic, train elephants and defuse bombs! I am so excited. Check out this website to meet some very interesting people that have been in my pants.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Levi and Jake Flirt with Sandy




















Just a quickie on the way home from college, it was a way to blow off some steam after finals. Garter snakes ran rampant of the foot of the Sax Wall. I set up a top rope and said "Go for it boys, let's see what you can do!" Although inexperienced, they made a couple of passes at Sandy and said they would be back after their big summer adventure when they have picked up a trick or two.

They spend some time bouldering over at Sigma Wall as well, intruiged by the same curving lines that captured the heart of Aaron. It was their first time climbing outside and they yearn for more.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

I'll Be Off the Grid 'til Sunday Training for the Mountains

I am training this weekend for high altitude by simulating the conditions found above 15,000 feet or more. I will be smoking cigars image - which is a way to decrease O2 to the lungs and train my body to function with less oxygen.  I will be drinking imagealcohol - which kills brain cells and is similar to altitudes above 19,000. I will be standing outside for hours at a time exposed to the elements. Risking hypothermia or sunstroke. 
image

But for me, the biggest risk is to be without the Internet. So I'm relying on you to fill in the blanks. And hoping I'll have enough brain cells remaining, when I get back, so I can understand your posts.

New Romance Novel Just Published

I found this  book at Amazon. Pretty steamy!

too wicked v2

It's all fun and games...

and no one got hurt. Lisa, Aaron, Amy and Pam were all present for some good climbs and a little "refresher" on escaping a belay. We finished some leads on the natural wall, we met a local rock star and did one armed dynos up the kiddie wall.

The guy in the huge funny boots was not part of our games or preparing for high water, but Mike Farris preparing to climb K2 in 3 weeks. He was super nice, sort of cute and mentioned an updated version to his climbing guide.

The Latest in Climbing Fashion

I think these shorts are from the '09 PraNa collection.

slackline

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Classic Climbing Equipment

Seeing the two guys yesterday climbing with old gear at Sandstone, I did some research to find info about the harness they used. It's very similar to the Whillans Sit Harness which was quite controversial here in the US in the 70s. Here's a quote from the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Company (the precursor to Patagonia Clothing.)

"Chouinard and others are positively opposed to harnesses and such contraptions, but as a concession to Frost, (who has sold out to the British technocracy,) the Whillans Sit Harness is herein offered to American climbers. It provides greater comfort than the Swami Belt for falling, taking tension and belaying on inadequate stances"
CHOUINARD EQUIPMENT CATALOG, 1972

Prior to this, climbers used the Swami Belt which was webbing wrapped around the waist. You really don't want to do a lot of hanging on a climb when all your weight is held by a waist band.

Sandstone cont'd

Yesterday at the park, some hikers asked us about the caves along the river. (They assumed we were experts because, well, we are experts on most everything - just ask.) I was reading about the Kettle River and I found this:

"Robinson Ice Cave is a 200 foot deep cave in the bluffs between Wolf Creek Falls and Sandstone. The cave is not open to the public and the entrance is gated to protect the little brown bats, big brown bats, and Keen's myotis bats that hibernate in it. In winter large stalagmites of ice often form on the cave floor, but in a strict sense it is not an ice cave because the ice does not persist year-round."

The sandstone rock is Precambrian sandstone known as the Hinckley Formation. So that's a good thing, I guess.

kettle river

 

 

Here's a map of the whitewater route between Banning Park and Robinson Park.

Old School

Some of you are too young and/or too new to climbing to even recognize this gear.

image These guys who were climbing at Sandstone had lots of traditional/old school gear. Like the "RR" (Royal Robbins) climbing shoes, the Figure 8 belay device, the leather gloves for belaying, the Wilhans Sit Harness, the blue REI day pack. All of these are at least 20 years old. Perfectly good and almost collectible on ebay.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Sandstone

Mel-lo, Sunbeam, Aaron and I got there under gray skies and about 55 degree temps. And, amazingly enough, no one else was there. For the first ten minutes. And then two guys showed up to climb on the Jazz wall. They'd been climbing in Sandstone for over 20 years. Always top roping. Which means they had many more options than we did. 'Cuz I think we did every sport climb there except the three 5.12s.

IMG_5719

Lisa (at left) leading an unnamed 5.10+ on Sax Wall. (Only a few climbs have names.)

The rock feels solid, warm to the hands, frictiony and stable. (It's similar in feel to a new hold at VE.)

Almost everything that looked like a good hold from below, was a good hold. (Occasionally there were surprises.)

We usually rapped down when we were finished with a route because the anchors just had rings - which is kinda fun and a little more time consuming.

IMG_5713

 

 

 

Mel leading "Quantum Chaos" on Diagonal Wall. 

How do I love thee Sandstone? Let me count the ways...

I fell in love; again. It was only our first date, but I know it when I feel it. At first I was a bit nervous approaching you; you were tall, tan, with curves in all of the right places. My friends Lisa, Richard and Mel were there too; but as soon as I walked up to you, they were a passing thought.

Studying you from a distance, I thought I knew what you were all about; I've seen your kind before. Drill grooves, cracks, ledges; I thought you would just be another notch on my harness.

Time to dance.

What?! You want to get out the ropes and chains?! We just met!

Never one to turn down an opportunity I decide to play your game. First bolt, clip. This is where you started playing hard to get, and I brought out the big guns. Sidepulls, underclings, dyno's; you threw it all at me. It's been a while, and I had to reach way back in memory to my gym days to figure out how I was going to handle you. Elbows down, right shoulder into the wall, figure four with a heel hook to follow. You thrust, I parry. I had to play every move in the game book with you. It was beautiful, and we danced our dance all of the way up to the anchors.

I've never met a wall like you, Sandstone. You have it all. Don't ever change.

Sweet Sandstone, that was fun. I had a good time. Thanks for dinner. Let's do this again. I'll call you....

don't call me.

A Nice Flake- Hey! Isn't that what you say about me?





Here are my climbing pals Richard and Aaron making their way up a nice flake on a route called "compromises" on Relationship Wall in Sandstone. QD reached out of his comfort zone, look at that reach. He is an awesome climber. A1 fell in love with the rock, it was so friction-y! Even though this particular climb had oooky parts, he was climbing like a house-a-fire.

Tiny holds!


Mel and I used the advantage of our tiny hands at Sandstone today. We enjoyed many new routes on the Sax Wall at Robinson Park. It was well worth the drive. There were 4 climbers, and I expect they will express themselves in 4 blog entries.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

This Might Explain the Weather

I seem to remember in year's past, we had warmer weather in Spring. Well, that's correct. Minnesota used to be on the equator.

MNthroughtime

Text is hard to read below the image. It says, "Position of drifting North American continent, from Cambrian (upper left) to present (lower right.) Position of equator shown by dashed line.

Pony Up Some Dough & Let's Go

Wouldn't it be fun to have your very own climbing area? Already established? In the mountains? With a via ferrata? It's for sale.

Dream no more, here it is:

fins of rock "Two free-standing “fins” of Tuscarora Sandstone tower up to 300' above the mountainside, very similar in scale and appearance to Seneca Rocks. Nelson Rocks has a rich history of climbing activity, with nearly 200 established climbing routes of various styles and
difficulty."