Steph Davis On Fear Of Falling

In response to a question on her blog, she sez:

“I’ve noticed that there are generally two approaches to fear (whether in climbing or any sport)–some people need to get all psyched up and just ‘GO FOR IT (dude)!’. This gets them out the door, and is one way to overcome nerves. For others, just going for it is the opposite of their approach….they prefer to take things bit by bit and work up to the thing that has been intimidating them.

I have tried both. My personal experience, and also my observation of watching others doing it, is that the first approach is generally counterproductive for best performance.”

Read the whole thing here for some practical advice on how to practice falling.

Pete & Fabrice’s Climbing At Ten Sleep

After weeks of cajoling, I have finally obtained the never-before-seen photos of Fabrice the Fabulous Frenchman and his Phenomenal Pal Pete’s trip to Ten Sleep. They were there last September.

After looking at their photos and talking to them about the trip, I am ready to go. There are miles of cliffs and very few people. Ask them about the details.

I really enjoyed this photo of their campsite. There are so many rocks out there, that what we would consider a boulder problem, they use as a wind break for their fire.

Slideshow below. All photos here.

Dry Tooling Indoors

What will they think of next? Here’s a tool to practice ice climbing and dry tooling indoors on plastic holds.

“Without a doubt this is one of the most important innovations in outdoor equipment for many years. I expect every climbing wall in the country to have them available for hire alongside rock boots, harnesses and helmets in the future."

MovNat–Train Yourself The Natural Way

A long article about a fitness course called “MovNat” here in Outside magazine. A video giving you some idea of what’s involved in the weeklong course is below.

I’m a big fan of this type of workout. And, if you want to try it, I can set up a course right here. He charges $1,700 for the week. If you want to do that type of workout at my house, I will only charge you about 90 bucks. You can climb on my roof and shovel off snow. You can shovel snow out of my yard and carry firewood over to the storage rack. You can split and stack firewood ‘til the cows come home - or until it gets dark. There are a bunch of tall trees you can climb; and while you’re up there, why don’t you cut off a few of the dead branches? I can’t, unfortunately, at this time of year provide you with a place to swim. Come in the summer though, and you can swim all you want in the lake. And you can push a big log around too. In the summer, you can dig holes in dirt, carry landscape timbers around on your shoulder and do other stuff.

PS For your 90 bucks, I’ll throw in a lunch – just like he does. And I’ll probably throw in some compliments free of charge.

Whitewater Kayaking

 I've had many climbers ask me about whitewater kayaking.  I teach through Rapids Riders in the spring.    We offer one course of a pool session and two weekends out running rivers and camping.  If you're interested you can find the link to every kayak instruction in the Midwest on my blogs side panel here.  People are signing up right now so get yours in early to ensure a spot.
  Some provide the boat and equipment.  Rapids Riders does not. You can rent a kayak and gear from Midwest if you choose Rapids Riders.  I will have a couple available to paddle. 
  If you want to get a jump start on spring paddling,  Rapids Riders has pool sessions in the winter with open pool, skills and rolling clinics.  These are held Sunday nights from 5 to 7pm at the Brooklyn Center Pool.  Cost is $10.  I do have extra boats available to lend out but you'll have to get hold of me in advance to see if I am coming to that pool session and what's available.
  Pool sessions will be coming to the Red Wing YMCA the end of Feb. and through March.  Again skill and rolling will be featured.

The best of all is that there is a pick up game of kayak polo on Sundays...no skills needed and no paddles allowed.  Just a whole lot of fun.  I hope to see more of you on the rivers!  Nora

Developing Climbs In The Jungle

This is a blog about climbing in SE Asia. Here’s a “before” photo of a cliff about 65 feet high they want to develop for climbing.

 

 

 

Here’s what it looks like after the jungle vegetation is cleared off.

Get Smarter By Climbing A Ladder

At least if you’re a rat and a weight is attached to your tail, you’ll get smarter if you climb a ladder.That’s what new research shows.

“She speculates that resistance training, by strengthening the heart, improves blood flow to the brain generally, which is associated with better cognitive function. Perhaps almost as important, she added, resistance training at first requires an upsurge in brain usage. You have to think about ‘proper form and learning the technique,’ she said, ‘while there generally is less learning involved in aerobic training,’ like running.’

The brain benefits from being used, so that, in a neat circle, resistance training may both demand and create additional brain circuitry. Imagine what someone like Einstein might have accomplished if he had occasionally gone to the gym.”

Boy, if you have to think about proper form while only lifting weights, how about the thinking that goes on while you’re doing a hard climb?

Next time I see you Einsteins at the climbing gym, tell me about any new theories you’ve developed. At least, relatively speaking.

Anchors In The Wilderness

A new policy has been proposed by the National Park Service for fixed climbing anchors in wilderness areas. (If it’s a wilderness area, why are humans allowed into it?) They haven’t decided yet, but it appears they will still allow anchors to be used on climbs.

“This proposed policy recognizes that the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair wilderness, but it requires prior authorization for the placement of new fixed anchors (replacements or removals may also require park approval).”

Quite a lively discussion in the comments section. I understand why many people object to bolts and anchors. I also have been to many bolted areas where I have had trouble finding the bolts that supposedly ruined the rock.

Here’re two comments from the article linked above, that I liked:

“Anonymous @ 1/14/2011 9:23:04 AM You can see trails in the wilderness using satellite imagery, but I've never managed to spot a fixed anchor. What has greater impact?”

“Anonymous @ 1/14/2011 8:39:38 AM I think hand drilling will deter "first ascents" of pure sport climbs ,which usually takes place on crags within easy walking distance of parking areas.However on more wilderness crags the impact of bolts is well out of sight not only of the general public ,but is often difficult to spot even when a climber is looking for them.Also the noise of hand drilling a bolt can take up to 20 mins ,where a bolt gun takes but a few seconds..I think if a survey was taken VERY few climbers are involved in first ascents of what we now call Trad/Sport climbs, that involve the occasional use of bolts on multi pitch climbs for belays and odd blank sections.”

New Rope Technology

This is cool; if you cut the sheath, the core won’t give out. More info here.

How To Climb When You’re Not With “Guidey Pants”

She has a case of the jitters when her regular climbing partner can’t climb with her.

“I knew that I would need to man up and not show that I am usually afraid in these instances. I knew that I would not have my usual “Guidey Pants” (The Husband), who is used to my fear issues (after 12 years, the poor man). I would be swinging tools and sharing a rope with a new Guidey Pants, and I wanted to live up to the kind of partner that I was thinking he would expect me to be.”

It’s tough to climb with people you don’t know. I know that.

Alex Johnson In Bishop

On her new blog, she describes her recent bouldering successes in Bishop and says:

“The first step in broadening my bouldering horizon is to get out of my comfort zone.”

By trying a new area. Here she is 2 days ago climbing a V10.

 

Running At 22MPH

Lisa saw one of these machines at a gym where she teaches yoga. Looks like quite a workout. The only way I can go 22 mph is in a car.

Fitting Crampons

Some specific tests to see if your crampons fit your boots. Most boots aren’t designed to fit crampons properly – or is it vice versa? Anyway, this fellow says:

“What do I mean by "fit"?   I mean ZERO  movement between boot and crampon when latched and even more importantly when climbing”

The photo below shows what happens if your crampons don’t’ fit. (My crampons have come off numerous times. I now check them before I climb by kicking into ice before I start to climb it. I can tell right away if they’re OK.)

Hyalite Canyon

I was in Bozeman last weekend and after I skied Bridger Bowl for $15 (Thank you very much & Happy Birthday Jim Bridger) We snowshoed up to Hyalite Canyon, the site of the Bozeman Ice Festival the second week in December. The climbers were all very friendly, I probably could have gotten a ride but I was with some peeps that were giving me the eye. Family trip you know. Here is a link to more information.

and here is a video

 

If you go there take a soak in Norris Hot Springs afterwards, ahhhhh.

Ice Mine Climbing

If it gets too warm on the surface, you can always go ice climbing in Swedish mines where the ice is up to 500 feet underground. The video below shows one route that:

“..started with a double dyno to a mining timber, dry tooling off old steel spikes, and then climbing up ice daggers dripping from a vertical vent shaft. You won’t find that at the Ouray Ice Park.”

More on the climb below here.