Trad Climbing

Three climbers from England do some amazing trad climbing in Europe. Details of their climbs here.

 

Pete and Tom's Big Euro Adventure from Wild Country on Vimeo.

Team Lisa On Top Of Devils Tower

Lisa just called from the summit of Devils Tower. They reached the summit about 4:30PM (Central time) on Tuesday. They couldn’t climb on her Birthday – Monday – because it was raining and very windy.

Congrats are in order. Details are to follow.

Stayin’ Alive

Our trip last weekend to the Black Hills in about 5 minutes.

All photos here.

Sylvan Lake Night Climb

Here’s Amy just after finishing her first night lead at Sylvan Lake last Saturday.

“Shouldn’t I Be Done Falling Already?”

A math professor explains Ape Index and fall factor. Plus his story of falling on El Cap.

Life to the Max

Just thought I should let you know that Amy, Jen and Russell and I are celebrating my 50th Birthday on top of Devil's Tower on Sept 6. Purely by chance there will be a TV Crew filming it. I know... just strange.

The TV Show is called Life to the Max. I know you will all see it as it airs Saturday Night at 11:00 pm and Sunday Morning at 5 am! Wow, no wonder I haven't seen it.

Why us? Well here is their mission:

"Life to the Max” is a show that highlights stories of perseverance, tenacity and winning attitudes. It is more than just a sports show; it’s a program about those who look at the glass as half-full.

That's US! Here is the link to the website

The Joys Of A Rock Climbing Guide

A climbing guide in Boulder talks about his experiences leading clients. I liked this part:

“As I clawed up fragile, lichen-covered fingertip holds, my movements turned slow and deliberate. Sixty feet up, my last solid piece was 40 feet below; I would die if I fell. I silently fought for my life. After 20 minutes, my client asked about the route. "Oh ... um, it's great! You're gonna love it," I yelled down weakly.

Battling tears, I finished the lead. Then, with the security of a top-rope, my nonchalant client waltzed up like it was nothing.

"Cool!" he said. "What's next?”

Retrievable Anchors/Single Rope Rappels

I’ve been studying techniques for canyoneering. (We’re going back to Utah in October for some more canyoneering.)

I am impressed by all the different ways canyoneers have developed to make a safe rappel on a single line and yet still retrieve the rope. 

This is one technique using a regular size climbing rope and then a 6mm pull cord.

“The normal "climber" method of setting up a rappel is to thread the rope through the anchor and rappel on both strands. This is a simple, straightforward method, and works in a lot of cases.

Using a block, the canyoneer can rappel single strand on the rope, then pull using a lighter line, such as a 6mm pull cord. This saves weight and adds flexibility.”

Here’s a system to retrieve all of your anchor slings after you descend:

Lots more ideas here.

Kinda Wimpy

I was reading about these Greenpeace activists hanging from an oil rig on a bivy ledge . They were protesting drilling in the Arctic. This struck my as kinda wimpy behavior:

"Our activists hung there for more than 40 hours but last night, a freezing storm and high waves made them decide it was too risky. So we contacted the police to say we were stopping the action," he said.

So they were rescued by the police.

Freezing storm? That’s when the real climbers just get started. Or, rescue themselves.

Softened By Tears

The other day, Pete, Fabrice and Jen were comparing their brands of climbing pants. Jen and Fabrice liked their Carhartts because they had heavy-duty fabric. Pete said he liked his Dickies because they were cheaper and the fabric is softer. "They’re made in Mexico and the fabric’s been softened by the tears of the child laborers who are sewing them.”

So Lisa prepared this graphic:

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The Ultimate Belay Tool

Ever had a sore neck after belaying your partner up some multi-hour take-fest? With these glasses, you’ll never have that problem again. Now you can look straight ahead at the fascinating holds in front of you while the prisms in these glasses allow you to see what’s up with that climber above you. (It’s still best to not study your watch to find how long that climber’s been up there. Pretending that, with just a tad more chalk, s/he can make that gnarly 7 foot dyno to a one pad crimper.)

How Many People Do That?

Here’s a survey by the Outdoor Industry Association of the number of people who participate in various sports. I was a little surprised to see the numbers they estimate for climbing. I didn’t realize they were so high. They break climbing into:

Traditional/Ice/Mountaineering with 2.25 million people participating in 2008

Sport/Indoor/Bouldering with 4.8 million participating in 2008

Other numbers from 2009 report:

Whitewater kayaking - 1.1 million

Backpacking more than 1/4 mile from vehicle - 7.8 million

Summary report here. Full report here.

Climbing In Tuolumne

Here’s a trip report of climbing one of the classic moderate, yet easily accessible alpine climbs in Tuolumne in California. This couple did a lot of simul-climbing with minimal gear.

Never Been Seen Before?

Two Brits repot on their climbs of peaks in Afghanistan that may have never been seen before. Plus they got to watch a game of polo which is played with a headless goat. Who wouldn’t love that?

Via Ferrata In Switzerland

Story by the Gear Junkie about climbing a 1500 foot mountain face in Switzerland via Ferrata style.

 

 

I must say, these two don’t look too happy to be there:

 

 

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