Re-slinging Cams

Here’s what Black Diamond says about replacing slings on cams:

 

•    With occasional use: slings should be replaced every 5-8 years
•    With frequent use: slings should be replaced 2-5 years.

Re-slinging Black Diamond Camalots and C3s
So what and how should you re-sling your BD cams? Of course you can do anything you like:
•    One-inch tubular webbing with a knot will work.
•    Sending them to someone that knows how to sew structural climbing gear, and have them bartack a single loop of SuperTape will work.
•    Having someone that knows what they’re doing bartack a double length of SuperTape or 10 mm Dynex will work.

Lots more photos and test data at the link.

A Rolling Stone Gathers no Choss

This video contains the key to new area development. If John brings the Heli back from his trip, we can use it to clean up his "Secret Place"!
ssshhhhh don't tell.

Massive Bolt Removal=New Jobs!

You've got to read it to believe it, click here for the article from Splitter Choss

Devil's Lake -it's right next door in Wisconsin

This route is called Peter's Project, it's a 5.7 and I fear it wouldn't be a project for the guy I know named Peter. I think I would like to climb that crack. The scenery at this park is beautiful, well worth the drive. Here is the Mountain Project Information.

Thursday is the day

We are climbing outside by golly, I will let you know where as soon as I know.

Rest Days

Dave MacLeod suggests that

“Climbers on short (1-2 week) sport climbing trips often tell themselves they’ll just have a light day as active rest so they can avoid having to discipline a boring full rest day while staying at a dream destination. Tough as it is in the short term, the full rest day often works out better down the line.”

So on your short 2 week climbing  vacations, better take a few days off. More info in his article at the above link.

St. Cloud Quarry Park

Click here for Mountain Project info. There is a swimming hole too, for when it get to hot to climb. Has anyone been there? Sounds fun. If you have bee there, please leave a comment.

Wildest Dream

A movie about climbing Everest as Mallory and Irvine did in 1924 when they disappeared on the mountain. Details about the movie here. Trailer below. More about the movie here.

Red Rock Rendezvous 2010

A summary of the “Climb Like A Girl” clinic at the Rendezvous from one of the instructors:

“We worked on developing confidence in foot placements, especially on smears, and on not using upper body power to just pull through moves. I directed the focus on pushing with the legs and feet, watching the feet connect with each hold, and finding good balance points, even trying to take the hands off of the rock with every step up.”

A video summary below.

Seeing all those people there, makes it look unappealing to me. But, hey, I’m spoiled.

Because It’s Harder That Way

Here’s a short interview with Royall Robbins, the first person to climb Half Dome in Yosemite in 1957.

“Q: When was the last time you climbed in Yosemite?

A: It's been two years. I've slowed down. I climbed After Six, a 600-foot rock. I did it without a rope, which means I couldn't afford to fall.

Q: Why without a rope?

A: Because it was harder that way.

Q: Where are the famous Tretorns?

A: I don't know where they are. They've been passed on. I came upon Tretorns because I played tennis. I got out on the rock and they stuck very well and were very comfortable for walking up and walking down.”

The photo above is a pair of Tretorn tennies from the 90s. Don’t know what a pair of Tretorns looked like in the 50s. (Three of us climbed the Grand Tetons with one of us wearing a pair of Tretorns that looked exactly like the photo above.)

Friday At TF

It started to rain after we – Jen, Peter & I – had done about 3 climbs. So we retired to the Border Bar & Grille to discuss our options. Jen did get to do her first trad lead belay. A few more photos here.

Dates are set!....tentatively

Darrel at Sylvan Rocks sez  "El Presidente Bruce-o" sez that...

Pin Fest July 17
Beans and Biners Sept 11

This means we will probably leave here Thursday, July 15 and return Sunday, July 18th. Let us know if you can go.

Testing Info

This site has information on testing:

“multi-point anchors, ice screw and Abalakov anchors, belay devices...other applications of using equipment in real-world configurations..”

Vigilance

Lisa suggested this essay about vigilance:

“Vigilance is alert watchfulness. And as a climber it is paramount to be vigilant, not only for my own safety, but for the safety of my partner. Through the act of belaying, or protecting a partner with the rope, is when I am most watchful.”

“Belaying is a love hate thing for me. On the one hand I love being in a position to encourage and coax my partner up. On the other I have intense feelings of impatience, and become critical and think, no KNOW, how much faster things would go if I were on the sharp end, only to climb up and realize first hand the challenge my partner faced on lead.”

Much more at the link above.

Goldilocks and TF

Yesterday, we were talking about the geology of Interstate State Park, at Taylors Falls. So I did some reading about it and found this quote:

“Imagine a time of cold, when summers were not warm enough to melt all of the snow that fell the winter before. After years of this, the snow piled up deep enough to crush the snow at the bottom of the pile into ice, and then piled up more.”

So that was when TF was glaciated. Too cold for me. Thank heavens it’s warmed up a tad since then.

Before the glaciers though, things were pretty warm (Ibid):

“From river level to the highest rocks near Taylors Falls there are seven major layers visible, so we know that at least seven different lava flows formed the bedrock we see today.”

“The photo at the left shows some pillow lava formation in the basalt.  It is evidence that the lava flowed into a marine environment as it was formed.”

 

Ouch, I wouldn’t have liked that either. Climbing in asbestos-lined shoes would be hard, I think.

:And gravity is a little higher at TF which explains part of its attraction:

“This area is called the Midcontinent Gravity High because the higher density rock causes an increased gravitational attraction in this area.”

Between the glaciers and the lava, just like Goldilocks, I think the current temperature range at TF is “Just Right.”