Everything Is Inherently Dangerous

This is called “Best Fails of 2009.” It’ll make you say “ouch” out loud. My favorite is probably the guy bothering the horse. Here’s a hint – don’t stand behind a horse and tease it. OK? Oh, and don’t try to push a dog into a lake.

Get Some Sun

I’ve been reading a lot on Vitamin D and its benefits here, here, here, here and here.

One good reason to climb outdoors is you get some sun which helps us make Vitamin D. (As you’re getting sun, you risk getting bitten by mosquitoes, wasps, bees and being hit by falling rocks. But at least you’re getting some Vitamin D.) OK, but when it’s winter, we don’t get the type of sun’s rays we need to make Vitamin D. (Above 35 degrees latitude, we can’t make Vitamin D from mid October to March) So what to do? Well, read the links and you tell me.

“The application of sunscreen with an SPF factor of 8 reduces production of vitamin D by 95%. In latitudes around 40 degrees north or 40 degrees south (Boston is 42 degrees north), there is insufficient UVB radiation available for vitamin D synthesis from November to early March. Ten degrees farther north or south (Edmonton, Canada) the “vitamin D winter” extends from mid-October to mid-March. According to Dr. Michael Holick, as little as 5-10 minutes of sun exposure on arms and legs or face and arms three times weekly between 11:00 am and 2:00 pm during the spring, summer, and fall at 42 degrees latitude should provide a light-skinned individual with adequate vitamin D..”

The video below is a medical, biochemical and evolutionary view of Vitamin D and why we need it. It is from a lecture at the University of California at San Diego. (It’s 58 minutes but it moves fast and is quite entertaining. The first 28 minutes are the most important.)

Update. Lisa found this article:

“Vitamin D is an often overlooked element in athletic achievement, a “sleeper nutrient,” says John Anderson, a professor emeritus of nutrition at the University of North Carolina and one of the authors of a review article published online in May about Vitamin D and athletic performance.”

Tips For Women Climbers

Steph Davis has some tips for women climbers here. Most of it is basic, but the part about the posters in the women’s room is new to me.

Jeff Does The Ceiling

I started my new training program of belaying only. This will give me a good break from that climbing stuff.

Jeff’s been working on his ceiling routine for a little while and today he did it, with the help of Amy. Here it is in about 2.5 minutes.

Nothing You Can’t Do..

in Minnesota. “Tundra we are fond of.”

This is a musical tour of why we love Minnesota.

A Thursday Odyssey

Today at Homer's, once you got there, through the snow and traffic, it was easy. Dr P and John set up top ropes on the Big Central icicle and on the slab on the east side. Everyone climbed with great style but truly the day was all about fashion.

The boys were melting the ice with their hot climbing techniques and then it was my turn, They noticed I was not wearing my signature red jacket; instead I had donned a maroon sweater that matched John's climbing tools, the ones that Mel has determined will someday be hers. It was a look. The Pit Bulls were grabbing the ice just fine, I have yet to utilize those nice heel spikes. So many feature on these new crampons, Thanks Dr. P. I also used John's new Black Diamond Reactors. Leashless is nice as you can rest and shake out you hands; better make sure that pick is stuck good or it might fall. I wouldn't fall, as I was roped (yep, a big epiphany. It is Epiphany you know, church ladies know these things.)

Dr. P and John dry tooled, traversing to the right and to the left, it was impressive and though chilly in the slot, we were out of the wind and quite comfortable, especially since John zipped me into the biggest puffy coat I have ever seen, and velcro-ed a big hood over my head and around my face muffling my constant chatter. (it's a conspiracy!) But that's ok, I was nice and warm and it matched my boots. These boys can expect a call from my husband if they continue to spoil me like this.

Now you are thinking, wow, it sounds like everyone looked great! Where are the photos, Lisa!? Sadly our photographer was not present. We missed him greatly. We climbed the slab for him. There was a little more ice on it, still thin, a delicate process. John climbed it daintily. Dr. P climbed it with precision. I climbed it with much grunting.

The boys bantered often about who was "the man" I think towards the end, they decided it was me, but then Nora showed up, she might have taken the title after I left. Nora and I agreed I would do first shift, she was on second. There is a time clock on the tree. "Afternoon, Nora."
Nora! I like the green fleece but I also liked the leopard print. Dang, where are the photos?

The drink of the day? Well, Hot Jello and green tea. Yum. Might be even better with some Jack in it. Donde esta Ricardo?

New Miracle Fabric

Jump higher, climb harder, go faster, recover sooner with the use of this new fabric does…

“by combining Platinum, Aluminium and Titanium in a fibre, the inventors have created a fabric called Nexus that actually emits natural infra-red rays. When manufactured into clothing, the effect of wearing the finished products is startling. The two main benefits are improved circulation and more effective cellular hydration.”

The Accapi Nexus website is here.

Mixed Climbing

Quite a detailed article on training for mixed climbing. I’d be fun to try some sport routes with ice tools like the photo shows.

Finally, Men Can Climb Ice

“Chicks with Picks” is sponsoring their first “Mixer” which will be a class allowing men to ice climb with women. Finally, it’s come true - men and women climbing together on ice. What will they think of next?

VE Wednesday

Here’s Jeff climbing with Greg and Tan doing the fabulous Figure 4.

Notice Jeff’s cool new hat.

Bridal Veil Falls

Franklin Ave bridge ice looked like this Wednesday, 1/6/10

Baffin Island Climbing

Big walls, big falls, big rivers, deep snow and quite amazing scenery. From the summary of their video:

“Rock climbing expedition on Baffin Island in the Canadian Arctic 45 days, 0 nights, 600km on foot, 4 guys, 1 girl,... and the polar bears...”

More of their story here. Including this tidbit:

“Luckily we had a hammock for the the fifth person. Every day we did rock, paper, sizers to see who was sleeping in the hammock…One night, when it was Silvia’s turn to sleep in the hammock we heard a loud scream. When we looked out, Silvia was dangling off a rope three meters lower. The hammock had suddenly flipped and thrown her for a ride. Always a nice way to wake up.”

 

from Holiday Inn by Kevin Kling

..."hypothermia is real. Remember the rule: if you are cold and upset, you're fine. But if you start feeling happy, and everything is right with the world, seek help immediately. That i...s hypothermia talking, and you don't have much time."

Accept Defeat; Neuroscience Of Screwing Up

We appear to have two parts of our brains which fight with each other for dominance when we experience something new. Part of our brain highlights whatever fits in with what we already know and part of our brain erases whatever doesn’t fit with what we already know. This article is based on studying how scientists work but it might also apply to people trying to learn how to do a new climbing route. Learning from our own observations is inherently hard.

“How to Learn From Failure

Too often, we assume that a failed experiment is a wasted effort. But not all anomalies are useless. Here’s how to make the most of them. —J.L.

1. Check Your Assumptions

Ask yourself why this result feels like a failure. What theory does it contradict? Maybe the hypothesis failed, not the experiment.

2. Seek Out the Ignorant

Talk to people who are unfamiliar with your experiment. Explaining your work in simple terms may help you see it in a new light.

3. Encourage Diversity

If everyone working on a problem speaks the same language, then everyone has the same set of assumptions.

4. Beware of Failure-Blindness

It’s normal to filter out information that contradicts our preconceptions. The only way to avoid that bias is to be aware of it.”

Hip Replacement Climber

Here’s the story of how a 65 year-old man, who recently got a hip replacement, is preparing to climb Everest. He’s already climbed Denali and a few other 19,000 foot peaks.