15 Motivating, Amusing, and Inspiring Quotes about ROCK CLIMBING
A few of my favorites:
“There are only 3 real sports: bull-fighting, car racing and mountain climbing. All the others are mere games.”— Hemingway.
“Climbing may be hard, but it’s easier than growing up.” — Ed Sklar.
“You can grunt and heave, sweat and strain, wear yourself out, and unless you simply forget about it and step up, you won’t even get off the ground.” — Mike Borghoff.
Some say, Good for him pushing the limits! Some say they would rather be mediocre than dead. I have always been extremely moderate. What do you think? Has Dean gone too far?
“..it was a beautiful day in Yosemite. Dean had a high line set up there that he measured as somewhere between 99 to 100 feet. He had walked the line leashed a few times when I saw him untying from the tether. I figured he was just taking a break. Instead, he stepped up to the line and started walking it with confidence and determination. It’s hard to imagine what it must feel like walking across a rope with over a thousand feet of air below, but it was obvious to me that Dean was exactly where he was supposed to be…”
Quite a lively discussion in the article linked above about whether or not he’s crazy to do this.
Our old bud Will Gadd is riled up about the folly of getting core strength thru using exercise balls:
“Rolling around on a ball is only extremely useful for sports that require rolling around on a ball. Are you working out to get stronger in a useful way or working out to get better at rolling around on a ball?…
Now on to "core strength" as it relates to climbing and balls. I often get into discussions with people who think their ‘core’ is weak for climbing. They usually can't get or keep their feet on an overhanging wall. Most ‘trainers’ will prescribe rolling around on a ball like a spastic...
….So, if you're a climber that has a hard time holding your feet on the wall practice by hanging onto two good holds in a roof and swinging your feet up and ‘catching’ holds with them, repeat with holds to the side, etc. The good news is that this strength does come relatively quickly compared to pullups or something.”
From a review of a new book called Pilgrims of the Vertical:
“…’Pilgrims of the Vertica’l" is not a climbing memoir; Mr. Taylor quickly turns to discussing the origins of mountaineering as a gentleman's pastime during the Victorian era—this section has the feel of potted history—before moving on to his main concern and the best part of the book: the early days of rock climbing in Yosemite.”
(Looks like Oprah has a show on camping in Yosemite. It’ll be super crowded next year, so make your plans early.)
Are belay loops safe? An article about how they’re made and what to look for when they get worn. This is a photo of someone hanging from a belay loop that’s held together just with adhesive tape.
She has 4 kids, works full time, and climbs 5.14. Who can’t do that? But how does she keep her hair so shiny and bouncy. (Watch the video, and you’ll see what I mean.) That’s what I can’t do. An interview with her here.
Jacinda Hunter: Style, Grace, Power from Prana Living on Vimeo.
Jacinda Hunter, a nurse and mother of four (two boys and two girls), juggles work and parenthood with bouldering V11 and redpointing 14b. She says, “usually when I make up my mind to do something, I get it done.” Jacinda feels her biggest challenge is being a good parent and good example for her kids. “It’s hard to find time to provide opportunities for their interests and growth, and still have time to indulge in my own passions like climbing.” Jacinda and her husband, Mike, don’t have a TV-instead, the whole family goes on climbing trips together. Breaking the Law, her hardest route, was a long, cold winter project with the family. Her latest First Ascent "Fantasy Island" (5.14b) is in American Fork Canyon, Utah. For more visit http://bit.ly/JCHunter
They built an overhanging wall on the river in Bilboa, Spain and had a contest. Chris Sharma won. Story here. More videos and an interview with Sharma here. La aqua del rio is muy far below – like 50 feet.
This is a free-standing wall in the Netherlands. About 120 feet (37 meters) tall. (So twice the height of our local cliffs at RW and TF.) I like this quote ‘cuz it kinda reminds me of our situation here:
“Dutch climbing walls don't need to compete with many outdoor crags…”
Here’s the website on this climbing wall. (It’s in Dutch so it took me a few more minutes to read it.)
An overhead shot take from a kite:
Here’s Dean Potter climbing a high ball boulder in Yosemite. (I think he climbed this in ‘07, but the video is fairly recent.) He kept this project secret by washing off his chalk marks each time he attempted this climb.
About halfway thru the video, he falls and says,
“When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days.”
More of his story of this climb here.
To answer Jen’s comment on the post about Middle Age Men In Lycra (“What color would you choose Richard?”), I found a video of a lycra fashion show. (It kinda makes me sick to my stomach to watch men prancing around in tight clothing. Others, might find it delicious.)
A link to the actual fashion show held at night. at the New River Rendezvous 2010. This is more sassy than the above video and not designed for youthful eyes. You have been warned! (I couldn’t get it to embed which is why I used the video above. Que lastima!)
OK, so what color tights would I wear?
Of course, the question “What does a self-respecting MAMIL wear?” is a trick question. A self-respecting man doesn’t wear lycra. A real hot dog does. And remember:
On the positive side, there are lots of people watching. There is more of a “buzz” with that many people; lots of energy in the air. And, I guess it’d be a way to make new friends. But, who needs that?
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I’ve always wondered what to do with old climbing ropes. I have two that I don’t use anymore, but I’ve kept them because…I spent a lot of money on them. And they’re full of memories.
This post shows how to make a rug out on a climbing rope.
A repeat of a 5.15 Sharma route described as:
“The route consists of campus moves between one- and two-finger pockets and long lock-offs.”
Who can’t do that?
Middle Aged Men In Lycra, is the newest acronym that makes fun – yet again – of men just trying to have fun. Oh well, here’s the full article.(Although, the last time I was at Red Wing, I saw some real hot shot young climbers wearing lycra tights. Are they YAMILs? Maybe it’s time for PPM to break out his pink tights.)
Here’s the trailer:
A movie about a well-known Canadian mountaineering guide is being shown at the Banff Film Festival. Info about this film and the history of the guide is here. Schedule of the Banff Film Festival is here.
Here’s a post with some questions about climbing El Cap.
“My friends and I have been climbing in a local gym for about a year, and are planning a trip to yosemite this summer to climb el captain. we have a few questions about gear, and thought we could get them answered in cyberspace!
thanks for the help in advance, but please kind of hurry up, cause we're leaving in a week and a half.”
- is a static rope good enough for the climb? the sales guy at the gym said it was cheaper for beginning climbers to just get a static rope to start.
- are there draws on the bolts already? my friend told me no way, because of some sort of wilderness designation, but i figure if people climb it so often, there might just be fixed draws.
- do the anchors already have chains, or do we have to bring one up with us to connect the bolts?
- how long does it take to climb it? i heard its 3000 feet high, so, figuring i can climb a 50 foot route (5.9) in about five minutes, thats about 10 feet a minute. 3000/10 is 300 minutes, or 5 hours. does this sound about right?
- what's the best route? i can lead high 5.10 on a good day, but solid 5.9 most of the time. i heard "slathe wall" is 5.9 A2, so that sounds about right. any other routes at this difficulty level?
- what's the A2 mean?
- i asked this old dude at the gym about our trip, and he said we would need "port-a-ledges and haul bags." he said there was a company named phish that was good for these things. cool! phish rocks!
- i read an article about some guys who went up with a power drill and replaced some old bolts. do we need a drill? i heard "bosh" is a good brand.
- i heard el captain is so high, you can jump off it with a parachute! does anyone know the name of school there that will teach us how to do that?
By a Czech teenager Adam Ondra. The videography is stunning. So is his footwork – esp. on the first climb he does.
When you have something really hard to do, you should:
Following these 3 rules, it’s as likely as not you’ll fail. Watch and learn. (The best part, for me, is right at the end when his wife(?) asks, “Did you hurt yourself?” )
This movie has been 3 years in the making according to their website. It represents 50 years of rock climbing in the US. More of the movie’s story here.
“She is a mild-mannered kindergarten teacher by day” and she just climbed her first 14a.
Here the Smileys climbing two more or their 50 Classic Climbs in North America. Story of their Wind River climbs here.
Double Dippin In the Winds from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.
The story of a woman climber’s 7 day process of successfully trad leading a 13a roof in Squamish, BC.
Nathalie Malo Red Pointing Zombie Roof in Squamish, BC from nathmalo on Vimeo.
Here’s how a climber overcame his fear of leading outdoors and his gym program to improve his climbing.
My plan for the gym was simple:
- 5.10 and below would be climbed on lead, period.
- 5.11 and above would be done on top rope, but if I climbed the route clean than from then on I had to climb it on lead.”
This is a story of 3 women climbing for a week in the Canmore, Alberta area. The last climb they did was Takkakaw Falls which is the 2nd highest waterfall in Canada. . Part of that 10 pitch route involves crawling through a cave.
Yesterday, we hiked the Virgin River through the Narrows. Many river crossings – 40? – in about 7 miles. Water temperature about 50 degrees. Luckily the water was only up to our undapants.
Today we ripped the desert up in ATVs. Nothing’s more fun than tearing across the wilderness like a bunch of drunken teenagers. (No we weren’t drunk – drunk on power & caffeine, yes. Not on booze.)
Here’s Lisa doin’ the dunes.
We did some canyoneering just outside Zion Park today. We hiked to the top of a canyon and then descended it via several rappels, cold water swims, and some technical stemming. At one point, Lisa went first to check the depth of the water. In order to stay out of water in this pool, she needed to a “downward facing dog” fully extended (hands on one side, feet on the other.) The walls were so far apart though, that she couldn’t reach both sides. So as one of us yelled at her “don’t go in the water over your head,” she dropped into the water and disappeared from sight. This was icy cold water more than Lisa’s height deep. She was down so long, we thought about sending out the rescue penguins to save her. But as usual, she popped up like toast. Another time, she had to ferry all our packs across a narrow slot the cliffs by chimneying horizontally.
Here’s a photo of us entering the canyon:
Here we are rappeling down into part of the canyon.
“And then there’s Indian Creek. A place where it all goes out the window, because the grade is completely dependent on the size of your hands. I love how my wife and I can have two completely different experiences on the very same route. It takes the idea of how routes can be different for every body type to the extreme, and makes you realize that it really is just all about having fun! You get thin hands there? No way, that’s heinous ring locks for me!”And this from the comments:
“I like how in Indian Creek, you don’t give the grade but the camalot colour for the crack. It makes so much sense, but sounds really weird to people not used to it.”
The story of a Spokane, WA woman who climbed the world’s highest peaks.
“I became the oldest woman to complete the Seven Summits by default, not by goal,” LeClaire says casually. “It took me weeks to even find out that I was the oldest.”
She never intended to make climbing history. In fact LeClaire, who lives in Spokane, Wash., with her husband, Jerry, didn’t climb at all until she was 51…she joined the Spokane Mountaineers mountain school, and with the group’s help, she learned the technical idiosyncrasies of the sport. She also got over her fear of rock climbing ’I couldn’t imagine myself, over 50, clinging to the side of this vertical rock,’ she says. ‘I didn’t like it all that much, but it’s all about overcoming fear. And I’ve gotten much better about that now.’”
“Dressing for the Outdoors” workshop sponsored by Gore-Tex, is coming to Bloomington November 11th. (Of course, it’s for women. It seems to me that women know more about clothing than men. But, hey, whatever breathes your fabric.)
This is an article from RockClimbeGirl about this workshop:
“I know it may sound like an exaggeration, or over-dramatic, to say thatGore-Tex changed my life… but it’s actually true.
Me, in repose, on a rainy climbing day in Squamish, clad in my Arc'teryx Alpha LT Gore-Tex ProShell jacket. Photo by Tiffany M. Royal.
Until the summer of 2009 I was a fair weather athlete… I’d watch the weekend weather report, and if there was rain a’coming, I’d change my plans. But during the summer of 2009, I was training for my first mountain expedition, and rain or shine, I had to train.”
Very cute article thanking belayers. (Of course, without the climber, no one would need the belayer. And if you’re a belayer without a climber, walking around in a harness and a belay tool is just silly.)
This is so true of me:
“I might roll my eyes when you check that I've properly tied my figure-8 knot, even though I've done it a million times. I might get a little defensive when you make me re-tie it if it doesn't look 100% clean and neat. But thank you for making sure I don't make a silly mistake that could get me seriously injured”.
Does other stuff together too. Here’s a story about Mom, Dad and teenage daughter climbing together in Yosemite.
“Having a child is a lot like my job as a furniture maker. You can start with something beautiful, but if you do nothing you have wasted a precious resource. If, however, you mold it and shape it, you end up with a work of art. I beam with pride as my work of art leads her first trad pitch, in the high Sierra, before even I have sampled Tuolumne’s pleasures.”
Why do some of us seek more adventure than others? An article on what adventurous brains are like.
“In fact, we may owe the continued existence of the human species to those crazy adventurers who weren't content to squat around and eat bugs with a long stick—the ones genetically inclined to seek out the better-tasting protein, the greener pastures, the prettier mates from unfamiliar territory.
There was also, of course, something adaptive about staying in the grotto to doodle with chalk rather than fight the mastodon. And so, many of us have some 'fraidy-cat genes, too… Witness free climber Steph Davis, who frequently jumps off objects in a ‘squirrel suit’ and last summer broke her pelvis jumping (with Ted) off our very same W Hotel.
..When we drop into a stream's tongue or thread a mountain bike between rocks, all our senses buzz to life. The garage-band noise in our head fades away. .. ‘I have trouble feeling where the river stops and my body starts,’ he says. ‘I feel very calm. It's a Zen state. I surrender.’ Or, as kayaker Trip Jennings, who's pioneered first descents on rivers all over the world, puts it, ‘I feel focus but also a sensation of freedom and intuition. I love that first stroke, when you're fully committed.’"
Black Diamond climber Brittany Griffith makes sure her belayer knows she is “totally not having fun” about halfway up a route on Mt. Arapiles in Australia. Full story here.
Tons of charts and graphs about climbing accidents in the US at this website.
Here’s one I liked. Looks like we’re pretty safe here in the Midwest.
This is the movie made about the Leadville, CO 100 mile mountain bike ride. It is “stupid hard” and “makes grown men cry.”
Details about the race here.
Details about when it’s shown in the Twin Cities here.
If you need help with your balance, here you go. They are re-defining it at this retreat in the mountains near Tucson, AZ. Along with climbing, you can camp, yoga-ize, and do other stuff too. (When a seminar/retreat advertises “healthy breakfasts,” I know it is not for me.)
The area in which they are climbing is quite spectacular. Mountainproject describes it thus:
“Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While there is certainly something for everyone in this vast area, those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing here in the Dragoon Mountains.”
It’s safer to climb than to have babies. At least according to these numbers from the British government. (I’m assuming the moms are at more risk than the dads when it comes to having babies.)
“The American Alpine Club, in its yearly compendium Accidents in North American Mountaineering, reported 15 fatalities in the United States in all of 2007. The highest tally in the last 57 years, in 1956, was 53. The yearly average was 25. The British government, comparing the risks of various activities, assembled these statistics:
- Maternal death in pregnancy 1 in 8,200 maternities
- Surgical anesthesia 1 in 185,000 operations
- Hang-gliding 1 in 116,000 flights
- Scuba Diving 1 in 200,000 dives
- Rock climbing 1 in 320,000 climbs
- Canoeing 1 in 750,000 outings
- Fairground rides 1 in 834,000,000 rides
- Rail travel accidents 1 in 43,000,000 passenger journeys
- Aircraft accidents 1 in 125,000,000 passenger journeys
Clearly, hang-gliding and scuba diving are more dangerous than climbing (as is ordinary bike-riding, which accounts for roughly one fatality for every 100,000 rides). But watch out for that really dangerous sport: pregnancy.”
(Of course, without babies, there’d be no more climbers. So don’t stop with the babies.)
Courtesy of Black Diamond Journal’s “Winger for the Weekend,” I saw this fun video.
This photo is of full-sized humans next to crystals
“.. up to 36 feet long and weighing 55 tons. Scorching-hot temperatures that could kill a human after just 15 minutes of exposure. Those are the descriptions of a newly-discovered cavern deep underground in Mexico that National Geographic is calling “one of the greatest natural marvels on the planet.”
This Sunday, October 10, the National Geographic Channel will air “Into the Lost Crystal Caves,” a two-hour special on the discovery and exploration of the Cueva de los Cristales, the Crystal Cave. More details, photos, and video on National Geographic here: http://channel.nationalgeographic.com.”
The more climbing I do indoors, the worse I climb outdoors. Why? Are they two different sports? Like this discussion thread? Is this the big reason:
“indoor climbing does not incorporate some of the biggest parts of climbing, the mental game that is involved with climbing outdoors (fall dynamics, gear placements) and possibilities for different climbing sequences to get past difficult spots.”
Is it because the real rock outside feels – I don’t know what else to say, except – real? Real rock is hard and painful. But so is a plywood gym wall coated to simulate a real rock cliff. I understand there’s a huge difference between placing your own protection – trad climbing – and clipping bolts in a gym. But I’ve observed a decrease in ability between top rope climbing in the gym and top rope climbing outdoors. Why? Is it strictly comfort? If you climb indoors all the time, is outdoor climbing just enough different that it seems harder?
This article talks about gym climbing being a “meat market” with a higher percentage of men to women. This is exactly the opposite of my experience. Way more women climb in the gym than climb outdoors. (Not a criticism, just an observation.) One woman climber, when I asked her why so few women climb outdoors, said to me “Bathrooms.” OK, I get that. (As if men love to squat and drop. That is always so comfortable – and fun - for guys.)
I think of the gym as an adjunct to outdoor climbing – as a way to work on strength and technique so that, when I go outdoors to do “real climbing,” I can climb better. (To me, it’s like the treadmills, or the rowing machines, or the cross country ski machines, in the gym – they are supposed to simulate the real activity of running outside, or rowing a boat on water, or, not to put too fine a point on it, actually skiing. On snow. Outdoors. Wowser! Who knew you could even do that?
I have talked to so many climbers in the gym – you know me, I can’t keep my mouth shut – who have never climbed outdoors. Or tell me, “Maybe twice I’ve climbed outdoors.” This could just be my age. When I started climbing, you could climb outside, or, let me think for a minute, you couldn’t climb at all. Bouldering and buildering were done, but, get this – they were done outside. Crazee, I know, but that’s the way it was. (Of course, when I climbed in the old days, I could always grab a nearby dinosaur as an anchor.)
I have noticed this summer, because I’ve climbed in the gym more frequently, my outdoor climbing has suffered. I noticed this in the Black Hills, I saw this at Red Wing and, last weekend, I noticed it at Taylors Falls.
So, I have begun to think that gym climbing and outdoor climbing are two different sports. Again, not a criticism, but an observation. For me, there are lots of good reasons to climb indoors:
Good reasons to climb outdoors:
What do you think about indoor vs outdoor climbing? Do you indoor climb because it’s more convenient but you’d rather be outside? Do you notice a difference in your climbing when you’re indoors vs outdoors? Is gym climbing a way to get better for the real climbing on real rocks or are they just two different activities? Comments?
For those of us with a smaller “Ape Index” - more like a “Capuchin Monkey Index” -
Ali Rainey discusses techniques to enable us to reach farther. Including this one of looking down to extend your reach:
“The subtle climbing technique of looking down at the last second before reaching for a handhold can help shorter rock climbers gain that last little bit of necessary stretch to make contact.”
This article talks about the lack of success in scolding people to lose weight.
“Telling people what they ought to do, even giving them the facts is unlikely to change much - I knew the facts of smoking and its likely damage to my health but still persisted for years.
Much of it is considered and helpful but almost all of it misses the big point about this kind of thing: far from being "reckless" or "immoral" or "irrational" behaviour by independent individuals, over-eating, smoking and alchohol abuse tend to be things that spread through social means, as for example,..
We do these kinds of things because those around us are doing them, not because we are - any of us - acting independently. We are social not reckless.”
This seems so obvious – you are who you hang out with.
How do people get to be expert at an activity? They hang out with others who are better than they are or at least striving to get better. Dave MacLeod discusses the previously cited article as it relates to climbing:
“We are social beings and it’s too hard to act individually swim against the tide of what everyone around you is doing….Go on a holiday where there isn’t a culture of sitting around, drinking, eating and not doing much (like a mountaineering trip) and you’ll probably come home a pound or two lighter, without even trying …
Some goes for your sport performance, training, whatever. The best way to get into a national team is to spend a stack of time with everyone else who is doing the same. I feel that it’s not necessary to make this a permanent move. It’s about hardwiring a new set of habits, norms, standards.”
“Everyone feels too short when the holds are far away, right? So, what?s the clue? What are you to think, that makes it possible to fly and land those crucial centimeters higher up?”
The Sandstone Ice Festival is coming up December 10-12th. Details here.
I can hardly wait for some big, phat ice.
Here’s Sonnie Trotter using a campus board to train. I have done a little campus boarding – enough to know that what he’s doing here is crazy hard and a killer for your tendons.
